The food lab better home cooking through science ( PDFDrive ) 884
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smoothandcreamybutnotgooey)andflavor(youcantaste
hintsoftheflourinthefinishedproduct).Apurerstarchlike
cornstarch is a definite step in the right direction, while
replacingtheregularmilk(orheavycream)withevaporated
milksealsthedeal.
Check out the difference between a béchamel-based
sauceandonemadewithpurestarchandevaporatedmilk:
See,astheevaporatedmilkandstarchmixturecooks,the
starch molecules swell up, thickening the sauce, while the
evaporated milk adds a concentrated source of milk
proteins. This helps the entire mixture stay smooth and
emulsified, resulting in a creamy sauce.The easiest way to
incorporate the cornstarch is to toss it with the grated
cheese.That way, when you add the cheese to the pot, the
cornstarchisalreadydispersedenoughthatthecheesecan’t
form annoying clumps. Want to get your sauce even
shinier? Cutting your flavorful cheese with just a bit of
American will introduce some full-strength emulsifying
agents that’ll get the sauce shiny enough to see your
reflectionin.
Thesaucewasgreatonitsown,butwhenaddedtopasta,
itdidn’tquiteclingtothenoodlesthewayIwanteditto.To
fixthis,Iaddedacoupleofeggs.Now,asthesaucecooks,
the long, twisted proteins from the egg white begin to
denature, unraveling and interconnecting with each other,
thickening the sauce into what is essentially a very loose
custard.Thedifferencetheeggsmakeinthesauce’scoating
abilityisquiteastonishing.
The best part?You don’t even have to make a separate
cheesesauce.Oncethepastaiscooked,youcanaddallof
your other ingredients directly to the pot and just stir over
theburneruntilthesaucecomestogetheronitsown.What
we’ve got here is a stovetop mac and cheese recipe that’s
only about 10 percent more cumbersome to make than the
bluebox(theonlyextrastepismeasuringafewingredients)
buttastesfar,farbetter.
