A

Giraffe
called

© 2014 Laura Pavy

Flick


© 2014 Laura Pavy


Flick

the

Giraffe
Hooves and horns color: 30gms/85m/93yards
of DK/light worsted/8ply acrylic.

Finished measurement: 17”/43cm.

Gauge:
Gauge is not important for this project
however; there should not be any ‘holes’ in
your crochet fabric.

Embroidery Floss
1x skein of embroidery floss to match chin
color for use around top of eyelids and to

attach eyelashes (2 strands used).

You will need:
Hook
3.5mm or hook size
yarn selection.

appropriate

for

your

Yarn
Main color: 100gms/283m/309yds of DK/light
worsted/8ply acrylic.
Chin
color:
30gms/85m/93yds
DK/light
worsted/8ply acrylic.

1x skein embroidery floss in complimentary
contrast ‘spot’ color for use around spots
and lower eyes. (3 strands used) Choose a
color that is a complimentary contrast to
your spot colors (i.e. orange embroidery
floss on brown felt)

Beads

2x 3mm beads matching spot color.

© 2014 Laura Pavy


You will need (cont.):

Templates

Eyes
2x 30mm/1.1” safety eyes
1x pair of false eyelashes
(available in
the beauty department of your drug-store).

Felt
I x sheet white felt.
Cut 2 x 35mm/1.3” inch white felt circles
for under eyes.

Eyelids – Cut 2.

1 x sheet felt for spots and eyelids in
your choice of color.
*You can add as many or as few spots as you
like.

Other
Small scissors for cutting yarn and thread
Embroidery needle

Darning needle
300gms/10oz of polyfill for stuffing
Spots – cut according to your preference

© 2014 Laura Pavy


5

Abbreviations
Ch:

Chain – yarn over, pull up a loop.

Dec:

Decrease – insert hook into front loop of next 2 stitches, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn
over, pull through 2 loops. Alternatively, (sc2tog) insert hook into next stitch, pull up
a loop, insert hook into next stitch, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through 3 loops.

Inc:

Increase – 2 sc into same stitch

Sc:

Single crochet – insert hook into indicated stitch, yarn over pull up a loop, yarn over,
pull through 2 loops.

[]


Work instructions within brackets as many times as directed.

()

Additional information and stitch counts for each round.

*

Repeat the instructions following the single asterisk as directed

© 2014 Laura Pavy


6

Frequently Asked Questions
Q: Why don’t you specify a brand of yarn?

Q: That hook is too small for my yarn! Can I
use a different hook size?

A: There are several reasons. Firstly because
amigurumi does not need a specific brand of
yarn to achieve a good result; secondly, This
project has not been sponsored by a yarn
company, if you would like to know specific
details of the yarn and other items used for
this project, see the back of the book. The
final reason is this: all crafters are

artisans; you are creatively free to choose
your favorite brand, fiber content and weight
of yarn to achieve YOUR desired effect. I
would love to see your projects!
I encourage you to share images of your
finished projects on Ravelry and my Facebook
page.
www.facebook.com/thecrochetcase
www.facebook.com/MerakiCraftInc
Pattern support is always available on
Facebook page. Just send me a message.

the

A: Of course! If your tension is particularly
tight, or you are using a heavier weight yarn,
a larger hook size may be needed. Use what you
feel is appropriate to achieve the best
results for YOU.

Q: My stuffing is showing through the crochet
fabric! How can I prevent that from happening?
A: To prevent the polyfill from showing
through your work, use a slightly smaller hook
than is necessary for the yarn you have
selected.
Also,
do
NOT
overstuff

your
amigurumi pieces. For best results, fill
FIRMLY, but not so much that you overstretch
the crochet fabric.

© 2014 Laura Pavy


7

Instructions
Important!

Body

This project is worked in a continuous spiral
without joining at the end of each round. To
mark the end of each round, use a piece of
contrasting colored yarn or a stitch marker.
If you leave your yarn marker in, moving the
tail forward and back for each subsequent row,
take care not to crochet through the yarn. It
can be easily removed when your item is
complete by simply pulling it out.

Worked from the neck down.
1.

Using your 3.5mm hook and main color,
start with a magic ring, 6sc into ring

(6).

2.

Inc into each st around (12).

3.

Working in blo for this row ONLY, sc
into each st around (12). Note: the back
loops on this row are utilized to assist
sewing the head to the neck.

4.

Sc into each st around (12).

5.

Repeat row 4 (12).

6.

*inc, sc into next 3 st’s, repeat from *
twice more (15).

To make filling your amigurumi easier, stuff
as you go. Start stuffing with polyfill when
your item is a few inches in length.
Some manipulation of stuffing may be needed to

ensure the correct shape is achieved.

7-21. Sc into each st around (15).

© 2014 Laura Pavy


8

30.

[Sc into next 15 st’s, 3sc into next
st] 3 times, sc into last 12 st’s (66).

Inc into next 3 st’s, sc into next 12
st’s (18).

31.

[Sc into next 17 st’s, 3sc into next
st] 3 times, sc into last 12 st’s (72).

[Sc into next st, 3sc into the next st]
3 times, sc into next 12 st’s (24).

32.

[sc into next 19 st’s, 3sc into next
st] 3 times, sc into last 12 st’s (78).


[Sc into next 3 st’s, 3sc into next st]
3 times, sc into next 12 st’s (30).

33.

[Sc into next 21 st’s, 3sc into next
st] 3 times, sc into last 12 st’s (84).

[Sc into next 5 st’s, 3sc into next
st], 3 times, sc into last 12 st’s
(36).

34-37. Sc into each st around (84).

Body (cont.)
22.

23.

24.

25.

26.

Now without cutting yarn, we are going
to work on the belly.

[Sc into next 7 st’s, 3sc into the next
st] 3 times, sc into last 12 st’s (42).


Belly
27.

28.

29.

[Sc into next 9 st’s, 3sc into next st]
3 times, sc into next 12 st’s (48).

1.

[Skip next 18 st’s,
st’s] 4 times (12).

[Sc into next 11 st’s, 3sc into next
st] 3 times, sc into next 12 st’s (54).

2.

Working only into stitches made on
previous round, dec x 6 (6) fasten off,
stitch hole closed with whip stitch,
pulling each stitch firmly as you go.

[Sc into next 13 st’s, 3sc into next
st] 3 times, sc into last 12 st’s (60).

© 2014 Laura Pavy


sc

into

next

3


9

Legs

24-25. Sc into each st around (24).

Each leg is made individually, each utilizing
18 skipped stitches from the previous section.
Start each leg by attaching your main color
yarn with a slipstitch into the skipped stitch
closest to the belly section.

26.

There will be 4 small holes near the belly
that will need closing with a few whip
stitches. Leave at least one yarn tail 8
inches in length at the beginning of any leg
to complete this step. Do NOT stuff legs until
all four are made.

1.

Attach yarn with slst in first skipped
st of previous section, sc into same
st, sc into next 17 st’s (18).

27-28. Sc into each st around (27).
29.

Sc into each st around (18).

20.

[inc into next st, sc into next 5 st’s]
3 times (21).

[inc into next st, sc into next 8 st’s]
3 times(30).

30-31. Sc into each st around (30).
32.

[inc into next st, sc into next 9 st’s]
3 times (33).

33-34. Sc into each st around (33).
35.

2-19.


[inc into next st, sc into next 7 st’s]
3 times (27).

[inc into next st, sc into next 10
st’s]
3 times, change to hooves and
horn color on the last stitch (36).

36-40.Sc into each st around (36), fasten off,
leaving an 8” yarn tail for sewing.

21-22. Sc into each st around (21).
23.

[inc into next st, sc into next 6 st’s]
3 times (24).

After all four legs are made, its time to
stuff legs firmly – this helps Flick to stand
alone, then create the soles of the feet.

© 2014 Laura Pavy


10

Soles

Tail


Make 4.

Cut 3 x pieces of hooves and horn color yarn,
approximately 10cm/4” long and set aside.

1.

Starting with hooves and horn color and
a magic ring, 6sc into ring (6).

2.

inc into each st around (12).

3.

[inc, sc into next st] 6 times (18).

4.

[inc,
(24).

sc

into

next

2


st’s]

6

times

5.

[inc,
(30).

sc

into

next

3

st’s]

6

times

In main color, work an icord (tutorial here:
to approximately
5cm/2”, when your tail is long enough, keep
all 3 loops on your hook.

Take your 3x yarn pieces, fold in half, pull
yarn pieces through all 3 loops on your hook
until you have a triple stranded loop large
enough to loop over the ends (tutorial here
/>without
the
braid).
Use a pet brush or comb to fluff the tail.

6.

[inc,
(36).

sc

into

next

4

st’s]

6

times

Fasten off and weave in ends. Using the yarn
tail from one leg, sew soles to legs with

whipstitch, adding a little more stuffing
before the soles are closed if necessary.
Repeat this step on all legs.

Sew the tail onto the back side of the body,
approximately 3 rows above the start of the
legs.

© 2014 Laura Pavy


11

Eyelids

Head

Make 2.

Now, the head is worked from the chin up,
still working in a continuous spiral. Stuff
with polyfil as you go.

Cut a small hole in the center of the white
felt circle (for safety eyes).

1.

With chin color, ch 13, sc into second
chain from your hook and in each of the

next 9 ch, 3sc into last ch. Now
working on the opposite side of the
chain, sc into next 10 ch, 3sc into
last (26).

2.

[Sc into next 10 st’s, inc into each of
the next 3 st’s] twice (32).

3.

*sc into next 10 st’s, [inc into next
st, sc into next st] 3 times, repeat
from * once more (38).

4.

*sc into next 10 st’s, [inc into next
st, sc into next 2 st’s] 3 times,
repeat from * once more (44).

5.

*sc into next 10 st’s, [inc into next
st, sc into next 3 st’s] 3 times,
repeat from * once more (50).

Gather together your felt semicircles, your
white felt 1 & ¼ “ circles, and embroidery

threads. Using 2 strands of thread matching
the chin color, whip stitch an eyelash and a
felt semicircle (flat side) together, being
careful

to

stitch

BETWEEN

each

of

the

eyelashes, and over the felt.
Line up the white felt circle under the eyelid
(with lashes) and blanket stitch through both
pieces of felt (top section ONLY!). Change to
your

contrasting

thread

over

the


half

bottom

of

and
the

blanket
eyelid,

stitch
being

careful to place your stitches as evenly as
possible.

© 2014 Laura Pavy


12

19.

Head (cont.)

[dec,


sc

into

next

6

st’s]

6

times

6

times

6

times

(42).
6.

7-9.

*sc into next 10 st’s, [inc into next
st, sc into next 4 st’s] 3 times,
repeat from * once more (56).

Sc into each stitch around (56), change
to main color in last st of row 9.

20-21. Sc into each st around (42).
22.

[dec,

sc

into

next

5

st’s]

(36).

10.

sc in each st around (56).

23-24. Sc into each st around (36).

11.

sc into next 20 st’s, dec, sc into next
26 st’s, dec, sc into last 6 st’s (54).


25.

[dec,

sc

into

next

4

st’s]

(30).
12.

sc into each st around (54).

13.

*sc into next 13 st’s, dec, [sc into
next 4 st’s, dec] twice, repeat from *
once more (48).

26-27. Sc into each st around (30)
28.

[dec, sc into next 3 st’s] 6 times.


14-18. Sc into each st around (48),

Do not fasten off yet!

Insert eyes (with eyelids) on the opposite
side of the head to your color changes between rows 17 and 18 and approximately 14
st’s apart,

Ensure that your eyes are secure by making a
few stitches behind your blanket stitch and
through the crochet fabric. Stitch a bead into
the outer corner of each eye.

© 2014 Laura Pavy


13

Horns
We are going to start the horns now. Do not be
confused by the first row asking you to work 3
st’s before skipping stitches for the second
horn – this is done because of the way spiral
amigurumi twists, and we need the horns to be
side by side on top of the head rather than
lopsided towards the back. Move your stitch
marker accordingly.

9.


[dec, sc into next st] 6 times (12).

10.

[dec] 6 times (6) fasten off, stitch
hole closed with whip stitch, pulling
each stitch firmly as you go.

Second horn:
1.

Attach main color with slst to first
skipped st in row 1 of first horn, sc
into same st and in each of the next 11
st’s (12).

2-5.

sc into each st around (12).

6.

[inc into next st, sc into next st] 6
times (18).

7-8.

sc into each st around (18).


9.

[dec, sc into next st] 6 times (12).

10.

[dec] 6 times (6) fasten off, stitch
hole closed with whip stitch, pulling
each stitch firmly as you go.

First horn:
1.

2-5.

6.

7-8.

sc into next 3 st’s, skip 12 st’s, sc
into last 9 st’s (12).
sc into each st around (ignoring
skipped stitches – they are reserved
for the second horn) change to hooves
and horn color on last st of row 5
(12).
[inc into next st, sc into next st] 6
times (18).
sc into each st around (18).


© 2014 Laura Pavy


14

Ears
Make 2.
Still working in a continuous spiral, DO NOT
fill ears.
1.

2.

starting with your main color
magic ring, 6 sc into ring (6).

and

8.

inc into next st, sc into next 16 st’s,
inc into last st (20).

9.

inc into next st, sc into next 18 st’s,
inc into last st (22).

10.


inc into next st, sc into next 20 st’s,
inc into last st (24).

11.

[dec, sc into next 2 st’s] six times
(18).

a

[inc into next st, sc into next st] 3
times (9).

3.

sc into each st around (9).

4.

[inc into next st, sc into next 2 st’s]
3 times (12).

5.

inc into next st, sc into next 10 st’s,
inc into last st (14).

6.

inc into next st, sc into next 12 st’s,

inc into last st (16).

7.

inc into next st, sc into next 14 st’s,
inc into last st (18).

12-13. sc into each st around (18), fasten
off, leaving an 8 inch yarn tail for
sewing to head – DO NOT stuff.

Fold ear lengthways so that your row/stitch
markers are the to folded edge of each ear.
When placing ears, markers should face to the
ceiling. Ears are placed so the top of the ear
(where
marker
is
closest
to
head)
is
approximately 2 rows below the start of the
horn section and slightly towards the back of
the head.

© 2014 Laura Pavy


15


Assembly
There is not much assembly left now. All you
need to do is attach the head to the neck and
add your spots! Place the neck on the opposite
side of - and in line with - the eyes. Use the
exposed loops on the neck as a stitch guide,
whip stitch around the exposed loops, catching
a few stitches on the back of the head as you
go.
Randomly place your felt spots on
body, neck and legs and pin in place.

When you are happy with your spot placement,
sew the spots onto your giraffe using blanket
stitch, ensuring you catch your crochet fabric
and the felt with your needle and thread at
the same time.
For the nose, embroider two x’s over the color
change line, directly below the eyes and
slightly towards the center of the face.

Flick’s
Congratulations on your new arrival!

© 2014 Laura Pavy


© 2014 Laura Pavy
land!

There are 9 sub-species of giraffe that can be
recognized by the color and pattern of their spots!

Did
you know?
The Giraffe is the tallest living mammal that lives on