Gap Inc.
Quality Assurance Manual

December 2009
(A Supplement to the Vendor Handbook)

1


Table of Contents
Page #

I. Introduction, Scope and Contacts
Introduction ………………………………………………………………………………………….
Purpose………………………………………………………………………………………………
Policy on Quality ……………………………………………………………………………………
Scope ………………………………………………………………………………………………..
Contacts ……………………………………………………………………………………………..

4
4
4
4
5

II. Requirements for Pre-Production and Pilot Run
Pre-Production Requirements …………………………………………………………………….
Purpose of Pre-Production Meetings …………………………………………………………….
Preparing for Pre-Production Meetings ………………………………………………………….
Meeting Participants ……………………………………………………………………………….
Meeting Materials …………………………………………………………………………….…….

Meeting Timing ……………………………………………………………………………………..
Purpose of the Pilot Run …………………………………………………………………………..
Pilot Cutting …………………………………………………………………………………………
Wet Processing ………………………………………………………………………………….….

6
6
6
6
7
7
7
7
8

III. Bulk Production Requirements
In-Process Inspection ……………………………………………………………………………... 10
Purpose …………………………………………………………………………….……………….. 10
In-Process Inspection Forms ……………………………………………………………………... 10
Cutting Inspection Procedures ……………………………………………………………………. 10
Trim & Sewing Inspection Procedures …………………………………………………………… 10
Shipment Audits …………………………….………………………………………………………. 11
Audit Methods ………………………………………………………………………………………. 11
Shipment Inspection Forms ………………………………………………………………………… 11
Acceptable Quality Level (AQL) …………………………………………………………………. 11
AQL Standards ……………………………………………………………………………………. 12
Critical Defects …………………………………………………………………………………….. 13
Major and Minor Visual Defects …………………………………………………………………. 14
Visual Audit Sampling Plans ……………………………………………………………………… 14
Visual Audit Procedure for Non-Destructive …………………………………………………….. 15

Measurement Audit Procedures …………………………………………………..……………….. 17
Measurement Audit Sampling Plans …………………………………………………………..18
Vendor Managed Inventory (VMI) Audit Procedures …………………………………………… 18
Pack Audit Requirements ………………………………………………………………………….. 18
Full Carton Pack Programs ………………………………………………………………………… 19
Full Carton Pack Audit Procedures ……………………………………………………………….. 20
Seconds and Overruns ……………………………………………………………………………. 20
Communication and Records ……………………………………………………………………… 20

IV. Safety Procedures
Safety Procedures …………………………..…………………………………………………….. 21

2


V. Needle and Sharp Metal Objects
Policy ………………………………………………………………………………………………….
Back Charge Policy ………………………………………………………………………………..
Needle Control ……………………………………………………………………………………….
Needle Detection …………………………………………………………………………………….
Other Metal and Sharp Object Contamination ……………………………………………………
Verification of Factory’s Needle Control Procedures …………………………………………….
Logs ……………………………………………………………………………………………………

22
22
22
25
26
26

28

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I. Introduction, Scope & Contacts
Introduction
This Quality Assurance Manual for Vendors is developed by Gap Inc. as a supplement to the Vendor
Handbook and outlines the quality expectations of all apparel products. The requirements have been
carefully established considering ongoing business conditions and Gap Inc.’s constant desire to excel
in the quality of the product they design and develop.
Gap Inc.’s Quality Assurance program is not intended to replace the vendor’s own quality control
program as Gap Inc. expects its vendors and suppliers to develop a positive culture of quality to
enable them to deliver products that comply with all Gap Inc.’s requirements. This culture must begin
with vendor management’s commitment to develop a quality organization and to embrace a proactive
approach to drive continuous improvement in product quality. Gap Inc. expects vendors to particularly
focus on following areas:
• Allocating appropriate resources to ensure quality systems are working and effective.
• Encouraging active participation of all workers in improvement efforts.
• Ensuring that manufacturing processes are stable, capable, and under control at all times and
are producing defect free products.
• Ensuring that adequate in-process inspections and testing are in place to monitor quality.
• Documenting systems, processes, procedures, etc. to maintain effective operations.
• Creating open, honest and timely communication with Gap Inc.’s sourcing offices.

Purpose
The purpose of the Quality Assurance Manual is to communicate product quality requirements to
vendors, suppliers and agents as it outlines the policies, procedures and quality expectations.
Vendors, suppliers and agents that do business with Gap Inc. must be familiar with the contents of
this manual and the Appendix worksheets and forms. Certain Chapters are written to outline

procedures for Gap Inc’s internal QA teams. However, the vendor may use it to train their QA teams
or use it in any manner to supplement their QA processes.

Policy on Quality
Gap Inc.’s policies on quality of apparel products are developed by defining various measures and by
setting standards that vendors are required to meet or exceed when shipping every purchase order to
Gap Inc.

Scope
This manual deals with quality requirements of apparel products only. This manual is also a useful
resource for Gap Inc.’s internal Quality Assurance, Production and Merchandising teams.
This manual is the property of Gap Inc. While in your company’s possession, the Manual is to be
maintained in strict confidence and must not be divulged to anyone other than those who need to
know its contents for the purpose of your dealings with Gap Inc. or its vendors. The Manual shall be
returned to Gap Inc. immediately upon termination of your dealings with Gap Inc. or its vendors, or
upon Gap Inc.’s request.

4


Contacts
For any questions or clarification on this Manual please contact your regional QA leads at the GIS
office listed below or Corporate QA at following address:
Gap Inc. Corporate Quality Assurance
2 Folsom, 6th Floor
San Francisco, California 94105 USA
Email: Corporate Quality Assurance

GIS Offices
GIS Americas

5200 Blue Lagoon Drive, Suite 300
Miami, Florida 33126 USA
Tel: 305-476-7500
Fax: 305-476-7545
GIS Hong Kong
20-22/F, BEA Tower, Millennium City 5,
418 Kwun Tong Road, Kwun Tong
Kowloon, Hong Kong
Tel: 852.2.730.9883
Fax: 852.2.736.8903
GIS India
B-1/I-2, Mohan Co-operative Industrial Estate,
Mathura Road, New Delhi, India
Tel: 91.11.418.22222
Fax: 91.11.628.0978
GIS Korea
36-37, Itaewon-Dong,
Seoul, Korea
Tel: 822-6733-6000
Fax: 822-6733-6088
GIS Mediterranean
Suzer Plaza
Askerocagi Caddesi No:15, Kat: 17
Sisli, 34367
Istanbul, Turkiye
Tel: 90-212-282-0420
Fax: 90-212-282-0417

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II. Requirements for Pre-Production and Pilot Runs
Pre-Production Requirements
This section has been written as a guideline for Gap Inc.’s QA personnel but the vendor can apply
and adopt it to train their internal QA staff as well. In-depth preparation is a critical step to ensure
success of any manufacturing program. Gathering timely and accurate information of styles and
production details from the Merchandising is a critical preparation step.

Purpose of Pre-Production Meetings
The purpose of the pre-production meeting is to ensure that all teams that are involved get an
opportunity to go over the details and are able to develop plans to deliver product that complies with
all the requirements. The intent of preparation is to facilitate early detection of potential quality issues
and help develop action plans to prevent it in bulk production. Pre-production requirements are
outlined below.

Preparing for Pre-Production Meeting
Pre-production Samples:
In preparation for a pre-production meeting, once a final Garment Size Specifications sheet (GSS)
with size set comments is available, a factory must prepare either a jump size set or a full size set of
pre-production samples, incorporating all the fit comments, for evaluation during the pre-production
meeting.
QA will evaluate the samples on:
•
Measurement
•
Construction
•
Sewing method
•
Trims/accessory placement

•
Potential safety issues
•
Aesthetics
This step is expected to help speed up the production process as potential production issues are likely
to surface during such runs and can be addressed before the start of bulk production. This can be a
critical step for large programs.
Order Placement Information:
QA should get a Confirmed Placement Summary (CPS) from the merchandising department that
provides visibility to styles being placed with each vendor and its facilities. QA must therefore work
with merchandising and the factory to obtain production information such as production planning, raw
materials and accessories status, etc. This will help the QA to plan meetings and/or visits to support
pre-production activities.

Meeting Participants
The pre-production meeting must involve all parties responsible for the quality of the production. The
following personnel are recommended to be in a pre-production meeting. QA should make an effort to
schedule and coordinate the meeting to time it with facility’s production planning or other such key
meetings.
From the Factory
• Factory manager/Production manager
• Production floor supervisor/s (cutting/sewing/finishing/packing)
• Gap certified QA
• Merchandiser

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From Gap Inc.
• QA/Garment technician/appropriate QA handling the program

• Merchandiser
• Product safety specialist (for kids/baby program) if based at source
It is recommended that either the spoke merchant or the hub merchant get involved in pre-production
meetings as well. Involve the product safety specialist in these meetings as necessary if there are
special safety issues that need clarification.

Meeting Materials
The pre-production meeting may be conducted with samples and key relevant production information
as listed below.
• Garment Size Specifications with size set comments
• Purchasing Order
• Trims card (the factory can prepare this in advance)
• Dye lots (as made available by the mill)
• Pre-production garment samples
• Sample with final size set comments sent by merchants
• Product Safety Line review comments or equivalent (for kids/baby programs)
Special comments & specific quality issues must be recorded on a Pre-production Sample Evaluation
Checklist (Appendix I, form #2) to ensure proper follow up action by the factory, in-house QA, and the
line supervisor.
For baby/kids garment production, QA must review any product safety recommendations contained in
the line review report so that they are correctly implemented in production.

Meeting Timing
The most appropriate time to hold a pre-production meeting is before the cutting operation. As
previously stated the intent of pre-production meeting is to consolidate all information and to ensure
that all parties have the same details and understanding of the program. If possible the evaluation of
pre-production samples should also be done prior to the meeting.

Purpose of the Pilot Run
The main objective of a pilot run is to review and anticipate potential production issues that may arise

during various operations such as cutting, sewing, finishing, pressing and also to review any issues
related to production measurements, product safety and overall quality.
For programs that require special wet processing treatments, the pilot run samples may be kept aside
for wash pilot at a later date when the wash standard is approved. The factory should start a pilot run
soon after the pre-production meeting.

Pilot Cutting
Cutting is the first process prior to the commencement of a pilot run. QA should review the following
points at the pilot cutting stage with the factory personnel and/or in-house QA:
• Proper shrinkage has been built into the paper patterns.
• GSS used is “Final” and critical fit comments are interpreted onto the paper pattern.
• Fabric testing has been done & meets the basic testing standard.
• Dye lot or shades have been sorted and grouped; out of tolerance (i.e. off shade) rolls
removed & put aside for a later discussion with the fabric mill.
• Face and back of fabric has been clearly defined and identified. This is critical for certain
fabrics where the back may be used as the face e.g. sheeting, poplin or satin fabrics.

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Factory should proceed with the cutting operation only when above details are verified and confirmed,
The details should be reported on an Shipment Inspection Report (Appendix I, form #8), using the
Fabric/Cutting Checklist and defect portion.
If questions arise concerning specifications, fabric or material standards, color or shade, QA must
contact the merchandising representative for clarification. It is a good practice to verify with
merchandising representative if there are discrepancies between their own information and those of
the factories before proceeding with bulk production.
Pilot Run Set up
The pilot run should be set up to simulate a small production run comprising of the entire size range or
having at least a jump size range in three possible color ranges. The minimum recommended units

are 200. Depending on the availability of colors, the vendor may be required to do more than one pilot
run.
QA must check that all components, trims, accessories and labels are available to meet the
production schedule. If certain components or trims are not available a pilot run may be done using
prototype or available trims and components. In such cases QA will ensure that a proper audit is later
performed to verify that the correct trims and components are used in bulk production.
Evaluating Pilot Run
As pilot runs are mini production runs, they are audited according to Gap Inc.’s visual and
measurement audit standards for shipment. These standards may vary according to the brand, and
are located within the QA Manual. However, the sample size to be audited should not exceed 50
pieces. The audit results should provide the quality level so that the vendor can address any noncompliance issues in bulk production.
Pilot runs are evaluated in following areas:
• Hand feel and color against approved standards. If standards are not available examples of
fabric colors and range of shades should be forwarded to the merchandiser or production
representative for their records.
• Placement and size of pattern pieces against specification sheet.
• Seam construction, thread color and size against specification sheet.
• Check that all small parts for baby’s and kids’ wear are securely attached and are meeting
product safety regulations.
• Attachment quality of buttons, rivets and grommets on adult garments.
• Garment measurements against specification sheet.
QA must inform merchandising of any quality issues that cannot be corrected and are beyond control
of the vendor (e.g. excessive fabric defects making cutting difficult). Merchandising will work with SF
GP to set an acceptable tolerance for such PO’s.

Wet Processing
Setting Shade Band Standards and Tolerance
In case of programs that go through wet processing and special washes, it is the responsibility of the
vendor to sort fabrics into appropriate shade groups and dye lots, prepare a shade blanket, sew
together shade lots from the fabric inventory assigned for use, and wash those blankets to match the

approved standards. In doing so it is assumed that the vendor will remove any out of tolerance fabric
rolls and only use those that match the finish and the wash standard.
In case of woven fabrics it is recommended to sew 12 leg panels using three depths of colors so as to
assess overall aesthetics, high-low effect, and abrasion. Pockets and other embellishments should
also be sewn on the leg panel to assess for abrasion.

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Wash Pilot
Once the shade band tolerance is set and the aesthetics approved, QA follows up with the factory on
performing a wash pilot so that final bulk production tolerance can be confirmed. Garments from pilot
run or from bulk production may be used in a wash pilot, depending on timing of final wash approval.
Evaluating a Wash Pilot
A wash pilot is performed on the first 500 garments of a bulk production run or as early as possible
when a wash standard has been approved and set. The wash pilot must include appropriate light,
medium and dark shades or dye lots to enable proper assessment of bulk production.
A representative sample size of 50 pieces of garments are inspected according to a statistical
sampling plan and evaluated for the following criteria:
•

Shade tolerances are within approved shade bands or dye lots. Check this by:
Stacking up the different shades and reviewing them against approved shade bands.
Vendor can rework as necessary to match the standard.
Shades that are out of tolerance must be sorted and communicated to merchant for further
decision.
•
QA may reject small quantities of production with shade bands outside of standard
tolerance if it does not impact size ratio.
•

•
•

•

High-lows and abrasive effects are in the correct position & not over abraded:
Hold a garment up when checking for high low and abrasive effect and numbers of nicks
against approved standards.
•
Key areas of garments to check are the edges along waistbands, bottom hem, outseam
and inseams, pocket edge and belt loops.
•

•

Sandblasting, permanganate, localized bleaching, whisker-finish:
Hang a garment up when checking for correct positioning and size of an appropriate finish.
This helps to give a more accurate assessment of the required three- dimensional look.
In most cases, for localized effects, they should be gradually faded out at the edge for a
natural look.

•
•
•

QA can always seek technical assistance of a hub wet processing specialist to address and resolve
wet processing problems at the pilot stage. Once the wash standard is set, in-house QA should follow
up on the process by monitoring routine bulk production to ensure shade continuity and matching to
approved standard.


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III. Bulk Production Requirements
In-Process Inspection
The purpose of an In-Process inspection is to check the following: raw materials, marker layout,
spreading, cutting, sewing, wet processing, screen printing, pressing and other embellishments.
Sampling plan should not be used at this stage since a lot size is a bundle. For woven and knit
production, the first In-Process inspection begins when knitting/weaving commences.
While inspecting semi-finished goods and batches during work-in-process, QA must keep records on
defects found for discussion and communication with the manufacturer/GIS production
representatives.
The number of defects found during a cutting, measurement or visual inspection should be noted on
the various In-Process reports. It is not the purpose of the In-Process inspection to try and measure
percent defective, but to identify potential problems that arise during these operations. These InProcess reports will be the basis for data collection and evaluation and to help drive improvements in
the operations.

In-Process Inspection Forms
At the relevant In-Process Inspection stages, QA will use the following forms:
• In-Process Inspection Report (Appendix I, form # 4)
• In-Process Audit Worksheet (Appendix I, form #5 & 6)
• In-Process Graphics Worksheet (optional ~ not included)
Please note these forms must be used as is during the In-Process Inspection. If there are questions
or change requests regarding the forms, contact the GIS QA lead or Corporate QA in San Francisco.

Cutting Inspection Procedures
The following are QA procedures when performing an In-Process cutting inspection:
• Verify and record fabric test reports.
• After cutting, perform visual and measurement (i.e. top to bottom ply, hard pattern to cut
pieces) inspection of cut parts using the In-Process Inspection Report (use the Fabric/Cutting

Checklist and defective portion) (Appendix I, form #4).
• Discuss the problems found and recommend solutions to factory management.
• If the factory can not correct the problem, the production representative should be contacted
for corrective action.
• If questions regarding specifications, fabric/material standards, color, etc. arise, the production
representative should be contacted for corrective action.

Trim & Sewing Inspection Procedures
The following are QA procedures when performing an In-Process inspection:
• All fabrics, components, trims, and labels should be checked against production approved
standards, and must reflect correct country of origin and fibers and component contents.
• Review and record all required Gap, Inc. fabrics, components, and product test reports.
• Verify needle control and safety procedures are being followed.
• Check to make sure that all components, trims, and labels are available to meet production
schedules.
• Perform random checks in sewing lines and finishing.
• Verify factory is inspecting at least six pieces of each operator’s semi-finished goods to check
for workmanship defects ~ Record finding on the appropriate In-process Inspection report.

10


•

Check hand and color against approved standards ~ If standards are not available, send the
production representative examples of fabric colors and range of shades.

Shipment Audits
The purpose of a shipment audit is to determine the quality of the products by its visual appearance,
measurement to specifications and packing execution. The shipment audit must be performed before

the finished product is shipped. This is done in order to minimize the risk of shipping defective product
to Gap Inc. distribution centers, stores or other designated locations.

Audit Methods:
Two audit methods as listed below can be used in relation to the timing of the audit. Non-destructive
Audit is preferred as it is considered the proactive approach.
Non-destructive Audit
A non-destructive audit is usually performed for measurements, visuals, and packaging before the
garments are boxed. Packing audits must be performed during the boxing/packing process to verify
labels, assortments, and counts.
Destructive Audit
This type of audit covers measurement, visual and packaging audits and is performed during packing
process when garments are boxed for shipping.

Shipment Inspection Forms:
At the relevant shipment inspection stage QA will use the following forms:
• Visual Inspection Worksheet (Appendix I, form #7)
• Finished Garment Measurement Sheet (Appendix I, form #9)
• Box Audit (Appendix I, form #10)
Please note, these forms must be used as is during the Shipment Inspection. If there are questions
or change requests regarding the forms, contact the GIS QA lead or Corporate QA in San Francisco.

Acceptable Quality Level (AQL)
Acceptable Quality Level is the maximum percent defective that, for the purpose of sampling
inspection, is considered satisfactory as a manufacturing process average.
The table on the following page shows the AQL for each brand. Gap Inc. requires that vendors must
meet or exceed these standards on every purchase order shipped to Gap Inc.

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AQL Standards
Table 1: AQL Standards for Gap, Old Navy, Athleta & Outlet brands
ANSI/ASQC Zi.4 1993 Single Sampling Plan, Level I
Gap
Gap
Baby
Old
Adult
&
Body
Gap
Navy
Kids
Critical
0.1
0.1
0.1
0.1
Defects
Major Visual
2.5
2.5
2.5
4.0
Defects
Minor Visual
4.0
4.0
4.0

4.0
Defects
Measurement
2.5 (A)
4.0
4.0
6.5
___________
Audit*
4.0 (B)
OCR/Ticket
0.25
0.25
0.25
0.25
Audit
major
major
major
major

Athleta

BRFS

Gap
Outlet

Hardlines
all

Brands

0.1

0.1

0.1

0.1

2.5

2.5

4.0

2.5

4.0

4.0

4.0

4.0

4.0

6.5


6.5

6.5

0.25
major

0.25
major

0.25
major

0.25
major

* = Defect is a Defect.
*(A) = Gap Body departments 165,167 & 168.
*(B) = Gap Body (excluding departments 165,167 & 168).

Table 2: AQL Standards for Banana Republic
ANSI/ASQC Zi.4 1993 Single Sampling Plan, Level I = BR & BR UK
ANSI/ASQC Zi.4 1993 Single Sampling Plan, Level II = BR Japan & BR Monogram
BR & BR UK
BR Japan & BR Monogram
Critical
0.1
0.1
Defects
Major Visual

2.5
2.5*
Defects
Minor Visual
2.5
0
Defects
Measurement
2.5 Wovens & Denim**
2.5 Wovens (a) & Denim(a)**
Audit*
4.0 Knits & Sweaters
4.0 Knits & Sweaters
OCR/Ticket
0.25
0.1
Audit
major
major
* = Defect is a defect.
* = Starting Spring 2010.
(a) = Except for Measurement which remains at level I sampling plan.

Note:
The use of an AQL does not imply that the vendor has the right to supply any defective product to
Gap Inc. Therefore, Gap Inc.’s expectation is that the vendor will incorporate adequate controls in the
manufacturing process and quality inspections at appropriate stages to deliver a defect free shipment.

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Critical Defects
A Critical Defect is defined as anything that can potentially pose a hazard or cause an injury or be
considered harmful to the product user. A Critical Defect can be, but is not limited to, sharp points and
edges, broken needles, loose components or other foreign items which are potentially harmful and/or
may pose a hazard. Improper or inaccurate country of origin or fiber, component content markings
and Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) “snug fitting sleepwear” measurements that are
greater than tolerance are also considered Critical Defects. (For details on design restrictions for snug
fitting children’s sleepwear please refer to Section III on Flammability outlined in the Softlines Manual
at: ).
Visual Critical Defects
To find Critical Defects pertaining to product safety, component content markings and country of origin,
the method used is visual inspection.
Measurement Critical Defects
To find Critical Defects pertaining to “snug fitting sleepwear”, the method used is the measurement
audit.
The AQL for appraising Critical Defects is 0.1
If a critical defect is found either during visual inspection or during measurement of snug fitting
sleepwear audit, the audit automatically fails and requires the entire lot to be inspected. All critical
measurements must be removed before the lot can be submitted for a second audit.
Procedure for Measurement Audit of “Snug Fitting Sleepwear”
• Determine if the product is “snug fitting sleepwear" by looking at the sketch on the front page
of the spec (GSS). It will state if it is a "snug fitting sleepwear" style subject to CPSC
regulations. On the measurement page of the Karat GSS governed by CPSC regulations will
be in CAPITAL LETTERS. On the measurement page of the PLM GSS governed by CPSC
the initials “CPSC” will be at the beginning of each point of measure description.
• Use the standard measurement sampling plan as stated in the measurement audit procedures
section of this manual. (Refer to the Measurement Audit Sampling Plan: Page 18).
• Any CPSC regulated measurement - those in CAPITAL LETTERS or with the CPSC at the
beginning of the description - that is greater than tolerance on the plus (+) side will be

considered a critical measurement defect.
• Any CPSC regulated measurement - those in CAPITAL LETTERS or with the CPSC at the
beginning of the description - that is greater than tolerance on the minus (-) side will be
considered a measurement defect.
• The AQL for appraising Critical Measurement Defects is 0.1 and shipping decision should be
made only when the audit is in compliance.

Major and Minor Visual Defects
Visual defect is defined as a product flaw that prevents the product from realizing its full market value.
There can be several reasons for visual defects and can be attributed to fabric defects, defective trims
or components, poor workmanship, construction defects, poor housekeeping, poor handling,
transportation damage, etc. The visual defects are classified as Major or Minor based on the location
on the garment.
Visual Audit Methods
There are two methods for auditing visual defects. The vendor should contact the GIS quality
manager to get the recommendation on what method to be used.
Option 1: Non-Destructive Visual Audit (audit performed before garments boxed).
Option 2: Visual Auditing begins after boxing/packing process has started.

13


Visual Audit Forms and Reference Sheets
At relevant stages of the Visual Audit, use the following forms:
• Shipment Inspection Report (Appendix I, form #8).
• Visual Inspection Worksheet (to be used for non-destructive audits that occur over an
extended period of time) (Appendix I, form #7).
Please note these forms and sheets must be used as is during the Visual Audit. At relevant
stages of the Visual Audit, reference the Classification of Visual Defects Sheets (Appendix II).


Visual Audit Sampling Plans
Table 3: Visual Audit Sampling Plan for BabyGap, GapKids, Gap Adult, Gap
Body, Banana Republic, Banana Republic UK, Old Navy, Athleta, BRFS, & Gap
Outlet
ANSI/ASQC Z1.4 1993 Single Sampling Plan Level (I)
Shipment Size
Garment Visuals
Lot
Sample
Critical AQL
AQL
Size
0.1
2.5
Pass/Fail
Pass/Fail
0-500
20
0/1
1/2
501-1,200
32
0/1
2/3
1,201-3,200
50
0/1
3/4
3,201-10,000
80

0/1
5/6
10,001-35,000
125
0/1
7/8
35,001- UP
200
0/1
10/11

AQL
4.0
Pass/Fail
2/3
3/4
5/6
7/8
10/11
14/15

Ticket Check
(OCR)
AQL
0.25
Pass/Fail
0/1
0/1
0/1
0/1

1/2
1/2

Table 4: Visual Audit Sampling Plan for Banana Republic Japan & Banana
Republic Monogram
ANSI/ASQC Z1.4 1993 Single Sampling Plan Level (II)
Shipment Size
Garment Visuals
Lot
Sample Size
Critical AQL
0.1
Pass/Fail
1-25
5
0/1
26-50
8
0/1
51-90
13
0/1
91-150
20
0/1
151-280
32
0/1
281-500
50

0/1
501-1,200
80
0/1
1,201-3,200
125
0/1
3,201-10,000
200
0/1

AQL
2.5*
Pass/Fail
0/1
0/1
1/2
1/2
2/3
3/4
5/6
7/8
10/11

Ticket Check
(OCR)
AQL
0.1
Pass/Fail
0/1

0/1
0/1
0/1
0/1
0/1
0/1
0/1
0/1

* = Defect is a defect.

14


Visual Audit Procedure for Non-Destructive
This type of audit may take place over an extended period of time i.e. more than one day. When the
non-destructive visual audit is performed over more than one day, the results are recorded on the
Visual Inspection Worksheet (Appendix I, form #7).
This worksheet must be reviewed and signed by factory management. The information on this
worksheet must be transferred and attached to the Shipment Inspection Report (Appendix I, form #8).
If any defects are found during this visual audit, a Gap Inc. representative will ensure that corrective
action is taken to address the defects.
Sample Size for Auditing
Sample size that is to be used for auditing will depend on the size of the lot and sampling plan used.
The lot size is the total number of units in a given shipment. Samples are to be taken randomly and
must include all sizes and colors. Therefore in such cases samples should be drawn based on the
ratio of each size and color to the total units in that shipment.
When multiple Purchase Orders are ready for shipment, they can be combined and the audit
performed on a sample taken from this combination. However, if the audit fails all Purchase Orders
will fail and if it passes all Purchase Orders will pass.


Major Defects
During this audit any defects as described below will be counted as major:
• Incorrect size strip (31x31 strip on a 34x31 pair of pants).
• Incorrect flasher.
• Incorrect logo label (wrong size).
• Incorrect non-OCR (BARCODED) price ticket (These items must correspond to the Bill of
Materials (BOM) as to item number and size).
• More than one major defect per product should only be counted as one major defect.
• Above items are coordinated by size and style.
Minor Defects
If consistent minor defects are seen that affect the overall appearance of the product, the shipment
audit fails. This failure must be brought to the attention of the production representative. However,
there is no need to notify production representative when the minor defects are within acceptable
range.
Labeling
Incorrect country of origin and/or incorrect fiber content label on any portion of the shipment will result
in failure of the shipment. For details on country of origin information please refer to Softlines Manual
Section I: />Shade Variation
If shade variations occur within a shipment, the production representative must be notified and
samples should be sent for approval. The vendor should also re-inspect 100% and sort units by shade
band. The results of shade variation observed during re-inspection must be reported to the production
representative for a decision. If the production representative requests that the shades be separated
then all cartons should be checked and accordingly segregated for different shades.
OCR Audit
Any trim that contains OCR (BARCODE) information must be audited during the visual auditing
process. This will be a separate audit and results must be posted to the Shipment Inspection Report
(Appendix I, form #8). When an incorrect OCR trim/label/ticket is detected, the facility must perform an
additional audit of OCR trims to determine the severity of the problem as well as the correction.


15


Measuring the Weight of Sweaters
Gap, Old Navy and Athleta Sweaters:
Three pieces of the median size (the average of the smallest to the largest in the range) are weighed.
The results are added together, and then divided by three (3). This will determine the average weight
per sweater.
Banana Republic Sweaters:
Sweaters of every size in a program must be weighed individually and calculated for average weight
based on the required size ratio in a placement memorandum according to the below listed
procedures:
• Assuming that the required size ratio is 1:2:2:1 (XS/S/M/L).
• Randomly select four sweaters of every size; weigh them individually and record the results for
the interim audit report.
• Calculate the average weight of each sweater size by adding the four (4) readings together
and dividing by four (4).
• Based on the size ratio 1:2:2:1, the average overall weight of a sweater is calculated in the
following manner:
(avg. wt. of sizes “xs” x size ratio 1) + (avg. wt. of size “s” x size ratio 2) + (avg. wt. of size “m”
x size ratio 2) + (avg. wt. of size “l” x ratio 1) /six (6) = overall weight of sweater.
Visual Audit Acceptance Criteria
• If the number of visual defects is equal to or less than the number allowed per the sampling
plan, the audit passes. The defective products found are to be sent back for repair or seconds.
• If the number of visual defects is more than the number allowed, the audit fails. The production
representative is to be notified to determine the disposition of the shipment. The vendor has
the option to perform 100% inspection to get an assessment of percentage that is defective.
• If the audit fails, record in the comment column as to when the re-audit will take place. When
the re-audit is done use the same procedures as new audit, including packing.
• Pass or fail status of Visual Audit is determined based on the sample plan and the

corresponding AQL Standards for each Brand as listed in Tables 1, 2, 3 & 4.

Measurement Audit Procedure
Measurement Defects
While performing a shipment audit, all measurements that are out of tolerance are considered
“Measurement Defects.”
Procedure for Measurement Audit:
Measurements should be taken on products after wash, after press and sometimes before packing.
Measurement audits must be done using a metal or fiberglass tape measure. Vinyl and plastic tape
measures are prohibited.
• Fiber glass tape measures should be calibrated using a Metal ruler.
• Vendors in-house QA supervisor must calibrate the QA /DA fiberglass tape measures monthly.
• All calibrations should be recorded and dated for reference as requested by Gap Inc QA.
Only critical measurement points highlighted on the specification sheet (Karat specification sheets
utilize an * to denote the criticals / PLM specification sheets utilize QC “yes” boxes to denote the
criticals) are taken at the time of the shipment audit. A product with more than one measurement
defect is counted as one defect only.
• Select samples at random.
• Measure products at critical measurement points which are noted with a (*) on the approved
Karat specification sheet or a QC “yes” on the PLM specification sheet.

16


•
•

Record all measurements taken on the Finished Garment Measurement Sheet (Appendix I,
form #9).
Highlight all measurement defects but make sure that a product with more than one

measurement defect is counted as one defect only.

Determining the Acceptance of a Measurement Audit
Acceptance is based on the AQL (See AQL Standards Tables #1 - 4) pass/fail levels for Measurement
defects.
Accept
• An audit is considered acceptable when total numbers of measurement defects is less than or
equal to the number of defects allowed (see guideline and calculations below).
Fail
• An audit is considered failed when total numbers of measurement defects exceed the number
of defects allowed (see guideline and calculations below).
Exceptions
The above criteria does not apply to the children’s “snug fitting sleepwear” program as it is governed
by the CPSC Children’s Snug Fitting Sleepwear Regulations.

Measurement Audit Sampling Plans
Table 5: Sampling Plan for Measurement and Pass/Fail Chart – Single Color
ANSI/ASQC S1.4 1993 Single Sampling Plan Level (1)
Sample
AQL 2.5
Lot Size by Color
Size
Pass/Fail
Five (5) sizes or less
20
1/2
More than five (5) sizes
32
2/3


AQL 4.0
Pass/Fail
2/3
3/4

AQL 6.5
Pass/Fail
3/4
5/6

Table 6: Sampling Plan for Measurement & Pass/Fail Chart– Multiple Colors
ANSI/ASQC Z1.4 1993 Single Sampling Plan Level (1)
Sample
AQL 2.5
Lot Size by Color
Size
Pass/Fail
1 Color
20
1/2
2 Colors
32
2/3
3 Colors
50
3/4
4 Colors
80
5/6
5 Colors

80
5/6
More than (5) Colors
125
7/8

AQL 4.0
Pass/Fail
2/3
3/4
5/6
7/8
7/8
10/11

AQL 6.5
Pass/Fail
3/4
5/6
7/8
10/11
10/11
14/15

Vendor Managed Inventory (VMI) Audit Procedures
Gap QA will check the pre production sample, take part in pre production meetings and will conduct
random shipment audits at the vendor site.
Select regions have empowered Gap Designated Auditors (DA) to release the goods for shipment if
no quality issues are found. Any audit (measurement, visual, OCR, packing) that fails is
repaired/reprocessed and re-audited before shipment. If the DA fails an audit they will contact Gap

QA for disposition. If the audit passes the DA audit, the PO will ship. There are safeguards in place
around this process, and Gap will de-certify a DA if they find issues.
All audits must pass current measurement, visual, OCR, and packing standards as per our
established sampling tables before shipping to Gap Inc. distribution centers (DCs).

17


Production Lot and DPO Audits
For VMI styles, Measurement, Visual, and OCR audits are performed on production lots versus DPO’s
because the units are ready earlier than the actual ship dates. If there is to be any rework or
reprocessing this allows the vendor the time needed to make the appropriate corrections preventing
delay of shipments. Production lots are defined as units that are ready to be packed with appropriate
size and quantity breakdowns.
Packing audits are performed at the DPO level verifying counts, labeling, and assortment accuracy.

Pack Audit Requirements
The vendor is required to perform the packing audit to determine packing accuracy compliance. The
shipment is to be checked for assortment accuracy, counts verification, and labelling accuracy. This is
the final audit before goods are shipped.
There are two types of packing audits, one done by the vendor entitled Factory Audit (“FA”) and the
other done by Gap Inc. QA entitled Acceptance Audit (“AA”) to assess the packing accuracy. It is
necessary to use “FA” and “AA” terms to differentiate similar terms used in the Distribution Centers.
The “AA” is the responsibility of the facility/vendor and as per Gap Inc.’s Policy this audit is
mandatory. Gap Inc. QA or those designated by Gap Inc. to perform shipment audits will be
responsible for a full “AA” of the vendor.
Pack Audit Defects include the following
• Incorrect quantity.
• Carton labeling errors.
• Incorrect Pre-Pack.

o Assortments.
o Amounts.
o Pre-Pack Stickers.
• Carton not as specified (size and construction).
• Crushed or damaged cartons.
• Use of wire or metal strapping to strap cartons.
Pack Audit Procedure
• When performing the pack audit, the vendor must place “FA” on each box audited. This “FA”
must be placed in a one inch by one inch space (1x1) at the top right hand corner of the box
information label (the label containing Purchase Order, style, quantity, etc.). This “FA” must not
be covered with tape or other labels because it will be used as a guide by Gap Inc. field
personnel and Gap Inc. distribution centers to verify audits and assess these cartons.
• Upon failure of an assessment, the auditor will continue the random sampling, using the
Factory Pack Audit Sample Plan (see Table 14). If the Factory Pack Audit fails, the factory
must then take appropriate action to correct the problems found. Discuss the results with
factory representatives. Receive and record the factory action plan to correct the issues found
in the audit. A re-audit will then be performed (not assessment) to verify the packing errors
were corrected. A re-audit will be performed and recorded on a separate Shipment Inspection
Report (Appendix I, form #8). This re-audit must be attached to the original report.
• Upon completion of this assessment and/or audit, complete the appropriate section in the
Shipment Inspection Report (Appendix I, form #8). Record the results of the “PA” and the
results of the “FA”.
• If problems found create shipping delays, notify the merchandiser/production representative
for corrective action.

18


Table 7: AQL and Sampling Plan for Pack Audit for Factory/Vendor:
ANSI/ASQC Z1.4 1993 Single Sampling Plan Level II - 0.65 AQL

Factory Pack Audit Sample Plan - AQL 0.65
# of cartons
5-15
16-50
51-150
151-500
501-1,200
1,200- UP

Sample Size
3
8
20
50
80
125

Pass
0
0
0
1
1
2

Fail
1
1
1
2

2
3

Full Carton Pack Programs
Each vendor who participates in Gap, Inc.’s full carton pack program should establish a packing audit
system.
Prototype Pack
For each Full Carton Purchase Order, the vendor is required to have in their packing department a
prototype packed carton for training. This prototype is to be approved by Gap QA.
Sample Size
The Vendor should determine what quantity of cartons can be packed, and held, before closing the
cartons.
This carton quantity becomes the population from which the sample is drawn. The way a sampling
plan works is the larger the population the smaller the sample size is as a percent of the population.
To optimize the inspection time, the maximum quantity of cartons packed and labeled but not closed
is desired. Once that number is determined, the vendor should choose the sampling size from the
pack audit’s sampling plan (0.65 AQL).

Full Carton Pack Audit Procedures
The factory is responsible for the full carton pack audit. The following are procedures for performing a
full carton pack audit:
• It is important for the vendor to keep the population size at a level that takes into consideration
the staging area available as well as the factory’s accuracy history. If an audit does not take
place until the population is large, a great deal of extra handling will take place if it fails. We
recommend that in the beginning, a vendor that is new to full carton pre-packs choose a small
population to audit until history can be developed and expertise learned.
• A same criterion for major packing errors is to be used as a normal shipment audit; use the
same criterion as listed under Pack Audits (FA and AA procedures).
• Gap Inc. will perform an assessment after the audit is completed by the factory/vendor.
• Should vendors allow improperly packaged merchandise to ship, it will be the responsibility of

the vendor to pay for any special handling required later in order to correct those errors at Gap
Inc.’s distribution centers.

Seconds and Overruns
Vendors must be reminded that all seconds or overruns sold to anyone other than Gap Inc. must have
all Gap Inc. logos, labels, or other identification removed in accordance to the guidelines outlined in
the Vendor Handbook. After all are removed, then an audit must be scheduled with Gap QA to
verify that the removal has been executed correctly.

19


Communication and Records
The vendor is responsible to communicate all failed shipment audits to merchandising and/or
production representative immediately for resolution. The vendor will keep all records of the audit for
review by QA or any other person designated by Gap Inc. It is mandatory for the vendor to maintain
audit records for a period of 2 years and safety related records such as “children’s snug fitting
sleepwear” audits; snap and button attachment audits etc. for a period of 7 years.
While Gap QA must maintain a close communication with vendor’s in-house QA team, it is important
to ensure that the factory manager/production manager/line supervisor are also informed of quality
and production issues to enable timely action to address the issues.
In regards to product safety issues, Gap QA must maintain a high level of vigilance, and in addition to
informing the merchant, these issues must be highlighted to the QA manager/spoke office manager
and GIS product safety team copied on issues. The communication process to GIS product safety
team is crucial when it involves out of tolerance measurements for “children’s snug fitting sleepwear”,
insecure snaps and buttons or uneven foundation issues. These issues could have legal implications
if not resolved.

20



IV. Safety Procedures
Please refer to Softlines Manual, “Product Safety Standards & Procedures”, chapter 5, section II,
page 19, located in Gap Source Library (GSL) at:
/>
21


V. Needles & Sharp Metal Objects
Policy
Gap Inc. will not accept any product containing foreign metal components, needles, needle fragments,
or other sharp objects. In order to ensure product is free from whole and/or broken needles, or other
sharp metal objects, Gap Inc. has adopted the following needle control procedures, which all apparel
manufacturers are required to implement. We further encourage each factory to go above and beyond
with additional means to ensure the safety of all products produced for Gap Inc.

Back Charge Policy
Violations of Gap Inc.’s needle policy are unacceptable. When needles are found in Gap Inc. product,
the quality control for the entire shipment is questioned and our reputation suffers. Thus, in order to
ensure vendor compliance with this policy to the highest degree, we have amended our Vendor
Handbook such that, if a needle, whole or broken, is found in a product after shipment from the
factory, a back charge will be assessed to the vendor.
There are multiple phases of the Back Charge Policy:
•
First Violation: the vendor will be charged US$10,000.00 payable within 15 business days of
notification or to be offset against the next Purchase Order, at Gap Inc.’s option.
•
Second Violation:
ƒ If the violation is from the same facility and occurs within 1 year of the first violation, the
facility that produced the product will be terminated as a Gap Inc. supplier.

ƒ If the violation is from a different facility or occurs after 1 year from the first violation, a back
charge of US$25,000.00 will be assessed, payable within 15 business days of notification or
to be offset against the next Purchase Order, at Gap Inc.’s option.
• Third Violation:
ƒ If the violation is from a facility with a previous violation within 1 year of the second violation,
the facility will be terminated as a Gap Inc. supplier.
ƒ If the violation is from a different facility than the first or second violations or occurs after 1
year of any previous violation at that facility, a back charge of US$50,000.00 will be
assessed, payable within 15 business days of notification or to be offset against the next
Purchase Order, at Gap Inc.’s option.
• Fourth Violation: regardless of the facility which produced the product or when the fourth violation
is found, the vendor will be terminated as a Gap Inc. supplier.
Any back charge or offset imposed under this policy will not diminish or effect any liability or
indemnification obligations of the vendor pursuant to its agreements with Gap Inc in the event that
Gap Inc. is sued.

Needle Control
Storing and Issuing Needles
Procedures are required to control storage and issuing of needles to ensure that there are no
spare needles on the production floor:
• Operators should not possess any spare needles.
• Replacement needles should be stored in a locked cabinet accessible only by authorized
personnel. There must be a responsible person designated to receive and store new
needles, issue new needles to the production floor / mechanics, receive a used needle in
return for each one issued and for keeping records which document this. This is also
applicable during overtime and shift work.
• The Needle Inventory Log (located at end of chapter) is to be maintained to record all
needles received and issued. All needles must be accounted for (i.e. the number of used
and broken needles must reflect the daily issued quantity).


22


•
•

Worn sewing needles must be disposed of in a sealed container, separate from the sewing
floor and recorded in the Used Needle Disposal Log (located at end of chapter).
The Gap Inc. field QA or product safety specialist will review this log during their site visits
and verify that the procedures for issuing and disposing of needles are being adhered to.

Managing Broken Needles
The following is required to ensure that when there is needle breakage all fragments are found or the
potentially contaminated garments/components are destroyed. Every effort should be made to
minimize needle breakages.
• When needles break, every effort must be made to locate all fragments.
• The bundle on which the operator is sewing must be thoroughly examined to located
broken fragments.
• The machinery, including the sewing machine throat plate, feed dogs and bobbin case,
must be checked.
• Use of a magnet to locate all fragments is recommended.
• Good housekeeping of machines and all areas around the sewing area is a requirement
that assists in finding broken needle fragments. Broken or used needles should not be
around machines or on factory floor.
• If all fragments cannot be found, the component/garment being sewn and any
components/garments on the machine must be taken to a separate bin in the plant for
further examination.
• The separate bin should be painted red for identification purposed.
• A metal detection unit, hand held or fixed, should be used to help locate the needle
fragments.

• An authorized person should conduct and document this examination.
• Components/garments can be returned to the sewing floor once either:
ƒ All fragments are found, or
ƒ All components/garments have been passed through needle detection without any
alarm.
ƒ If the factory has no needle detector and the fragments cannot be found then the
components/garments in the work area of the needle breakage must be destroyed.
ƒ The breakage, including recovered needle fragments, must be recorded in the Broken
Needle Log immediately.
ƒ For worker’s safety, contaminated needles, those that may or may not be broken but have
punctured human skin, must be disposed of in a blood borne pathogen container.
ƒ Please refer to Global Compliance and/or U.S. Occupational Safety and Health
Administration (OSHA) guidelines for further details on proper disposal of blood borne
pathogen containers.
ƒ If this step is required, the factory must record in the Broken Needle Log / Used Needle
Disposal Log why the needle parts were not kept.
ƒ Every effort should be made to prevent needle breakages and the following best practices
can assist in this:
ƒ Needles are checked to ensure they are in good working condition and changed
according to specified time frame. The number of needle changes per shift
depends on the type of fabrication, the operation and the type of needle.
ƒ Review of the Broken Needle Log at least daily to identify trends so that prompt
action can be taken to prevent excessive needle breakage. Worn out, out of
alignment machine parts or operator handling may cause needle breakage.

23


Controlling Hand Sewn Needles
Procedures are required to control hand sewing and tag gun needles.

• Where hand-sewing needles are used, they must be accounted for and the numbers of
needles issued must tally with the number of used/returned needles. A tally must be
conducted by appointed personnel at operators lunch break and at the end of every shift.
• Issuance and return of needles for tag guns must be recorded.
Needle Control for Embroidery and Quilted Fabric
All the procedures in this chapter also apply to embroidery, both hand and machine, and quilting
operations. It is the vendor’s responsibility to enforce compliance in their outside
suppliers/contractors. In addition the following applies to full width quilted/embroidery fabric.
• For full width quilted/embroidery fabric, if the broken fragment cannot be located, a special
sticker “Broken Needle – Special Handling” has to be attached at the end of each roll.
Please see below content and format of the sticker.
• All the panels cut from the roll with “Broken Needle – Special Handling” sticker must pass
through needle detection machine before being passed to the line for assembling process.

BROKEN NEEDLE SPECIAL
HANDLING

5”

(Garment panels must be
passed through needle
detection unit)

Neon color
(Ground)

8”

24



Needle Detection
Gap Inc. requires that all factories producing baby, kids, intimate apparel (any age) and Banana
Republic Japan products utilize a needle detector prior to packing. The needle detector is an extra
safeguard to prevent against whole or broken needles in the product to be shipped; however, the use
of the needle detectors must not replace due diligence in following the Needle Control Procedures.
• Intimate apparel includes underwear/shirts, camis, robes, sleepwear, and swimwear. Note: bras
and swimwear constructed like bras (underwire, hook & eye, etc.) are excluded at this stage due
to the high number of stainless steel trims that will cause false alarm on needle detection.
• The number of needle detectors must meet the peak production capacity of the facility.
• Needle detectors must be tunnel type with conveyer system able to detect ferrous metal and with
sensitivity less than 1.2mm sphere. Some of the approved brands of needle detectors are:
ƒ Cintex
ƒ Hashima
ƒ Dae Kwang (Besta)
ƒ Lock
ƒ Nissin (Mother’s Eye)
ƒ Safeline
ƒ YDS
ƒ Sanko (Nikka Densok)
For contact information and further details on approved models, vendors should contact their GIS Hub
office.
•

•
•

•
•


The needle detector must be kept in a permanent location according to supplier’s instructions
with a clear area around sufficient to avoid electrical interference.
ƒ A stabilizer/regulator is to be installed to minimize false alarms caused by power fluctuations,
according to the supplier recommendations.
ƒ If relocated it must be re-calibrated by the equipment supplier.
ƒ The detector must be serviced according to the supplier’s maintenance requirements.
Records must be kept of these services and any supplier recalibration; the Gap Inc. QA or
product safety officer will check these during safety audits.
All personnel involved in operating and supervising the needle detector must be trained by the
supplier to understand the system, the operating procedures and how to make minor
adjustments.
A calibration/sensitivity check must be carried out at least at the beginning, middle and end of a
working shift, using the 1.2 mm diameter test card supplied with the unit.
ƒ This calibration must be recorded in the Needle Detector Calibration Log.
ƒ If the machine fails during a calibration check, it must be stopped immediately and
recalibrated by a trained operator; all products that were passed through after the previous
calibration must be re-checked.
ƒ Once a detector has failed a calibration test it must not be used until corrected, access to a
back up detection unit is therefore highly recommended.
A log is to be maintained at the PO level, for each style passed through the detector. The log
must be signed by the packing supervisor. A copy is to be available for the Gap Inc. QA at final
audit to verify that all garments have passed through needle detection.
Procedures must be in place to ensure that garments, including repaired and re-inspected
garments, do not go to packing without passing through detection and the following best
practices can assist in this:
ƒ Garments awaiting detection and those that have passed should be clearly separated and
identified.
ƒ Locating the detector in the finishing area such that the only access to the packing section is
via the needle detector.


25