SETTING UP OF A GARMENT INDUSTRY

SSAD

SETTING UP OF A GARMENT 
INDUSTRY

Submitted By:
Dilip Singh
Kumar Sarvesh
Rajeev Sharan

A.P.­04(D.F.T.)

NIFT BANGALORE/ A.P. (DFT)/2008­12

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SETTING UP OF A GARMENT INDUSTRY

CONTENTS
•

INTRODUCTION







•

•

Stages of Business Development
Objectives of the Project

Scope of the Project
Benefits of the Project
SWOT Analysis
Terms Used in Foreign Trades

Market Analysis


COMPETITIVENESS OF INDIAN APPAREL EXPORT FIRMS



CARPORATE MARKET



INITIATIVES TAKEN BY THE GOVERNMENT TO MAKE THE INDUSTRY GLOBALLY COMPETITIVE



LARGEST MARKETS



TARGETED TRADING COUNTRIES






DILIP
SINGH

KUMAR
SARVES
H
RAJEEV
SHARAN



TARGETED CUSTOMERS



EXPORT GROWTH IN INDIA



SHARE OF TEXTILE & CLOTHING EXPORTS IN INDIA’S TOTAL EXPORTS



SHARE OF EXPORTS OF VARIOUS CLASSIFIED SECTORS



HIGHEST EXPORTS FROM TEXTILE SECTOR




INDIAN GARMENT INDUSTRY - CURRENT ENVIRONMENT & FUTURE PROSPECTS



INDIA’S SHARE IN WORLD TRADE



APPAREL EXPORT GROWTH IN INDIA



TRENDS IN INVESTMENT AND PRODUCTION



TRENDS IN EXPORTS: HOW DOES INDIA FARE?



SUPPORTIVE GOVERNMENT POLICIES AND NEW TRENDS TOWARDS



NEW TRENDS TOWARDS RE-EMERGENCE OF THE TEXTILE AND APPAREL SUBSECTORS IN INDIA



FURTHER STEPS REQUIRED TO INCREASE INDIA’S COMPETITIVENESS




ANALYSIS ON OVERSEAS MARKET DEMAND OF JACKET INDUSTRY

Workflow in Departments



Merchandising Department
Sampling Department

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









•


PRODUCTS TO BE MANUFACTURED


•

•

•

Machinery Lay-out for Sewing room
Machinery Lay-out for Collar, Cuff, Pocket, Button and Button Holing

Basic corporate information and industry
Financial Information
Technical Capability
Technical Proposal
 Product Description
COST ESTIMATION













•

Plant Layout

MACHINERY LAY-OUT IN SEWING



•
•
•
•

Product specification of jackets

 Product Specifications for Men’s Long Sleeve Shirt
PLANT LOCATION


•

Purchase Department
Store Department
Pattern Making Department
Cutting Department
Sewing Department
Finishing Department
Flowchart Explaining Workflow in Departments
Trims and Accessory Department

Flowchart Showing the Ideal Working of Fabric Department
Spreading department

Labour
FACTORY SUPERVISION
OFFICE /ADMINISTRATION
Machinery
POWER
Raw materials
TOTAL COST OF THE PROJECT
Calculation of Interest on Bank Loan
Estimation of Depreciation
Cost Quotation to Customer
Calculation of Break Even Level

Request For Proposal



Benefits of requests of proposal
Specifications

RESULTS AND DISCUSSIONS
 Export contribution
 Export growth
 Export Development in India
 Improved Plant layout
 Modified Sewing Layout
 Cost Estimation
 Feasibility of the project


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•

FURTHER  DEVELOPMENTS

•

CONCLUSION

INTRODUCTION
India is a country of opportunities and after the economic reforms of 1991 the world
market has got wide open for India in all trades especially for the business in export. In
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such a scenario opening a garment export house is a very wise thing to do. India is a good
place for textile and apparel industry as here we have abundant availability of cotton
which is the primary requirement for apparel industry, labour comes cheap in India be it
skilled or unskilled which considerably reduces the cost of production and hence

attracting a lot of international business houses which sense an increased amount of profit
in countries like India which over the years have made India a sourcing hub be the
material based industries such as apparel or knowledge based industry such as IT and
telecommunication.
This project has been designed keeping in mind the huge potential of India in the apparel
export industry and utilise this potential to the optimum level possible.
Stages of Business Development
Business idea generation
Business plan preparation
Start-up and growth
Established company
Interest of market
Financing decisions
Objectives of the Project
-

-

To utilize the potential of india in the apparel industry to the optimum level.
To set up a new garment export company with an initial production target
of four lakhs shirts per with an installed capacity of six lakhs shirts per annum
and 1lakh jacket per annum.
To provide employment to a number of people thereby to develop their life styles

-

To develop the economy of the country by earning foreign exchange

Scope of the Project
After the economic reforms of 1991 the export has played a very important part in the

growth of the economy of the country . Export has considerably flourished in India be it
the services and knowledge based sectors such as IT, telecommunication and BPO or
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material based industries such as textiles . textiles is one the major foreign exchange
earner for India in that apparels make a very considerable amount of contribution. A
garment export house set up keeping in mind this project if managed anrd run properly is
sure to gain a considerable amount of foreign exchange for the country and provide
employment to a large number of people in the country. With the growth and
devlopement in the industry ther will be visible contribution in the economy of the
country.
Benefits of the Project
1.Cash assistance
2.Tax concessions
3.Financial assistance
4.Special assistance to export oriented industries
5.Import benefits
6.Foreign exchange
7.Freight concessions
8.Special concessions to small scale industries
9.Awards for exporters
10.Insurance against risks
11.Raw material allocation
12.Duty draw-backs
13.Transport Concessions

1 Cash Assiatance
Cash assistance is allowed on export of selected products to meet the international
price competitions. With these assistances, exporters can sell their products in foreign
market on lower price than the price prevailing in the domestic market even less than
their cost price. The assistance is available only for the registered exporters of approved
products.
1

Tax Concession

Exporters are entitled to many concessions in respect of the income tax, sales tax,
excise duty, import duty and export duty etc.

2

Financial Assistance

Finance in the form of advance or loan is available for export from the Commercial
Banks, Industrial Development Bank of India (IDBI), Reserve Bank of India (RBI),
Export Credit And Guarantee Corporation (ECGC) and State Bank of India (SBI) etc.
The State Trading Corporation (STC) also provides assistance to exporters. The Banks
also make payments against letter of credit (L/C) money in advance against export
documents and packing credit facility is also provided to the exporters.
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4 Special Assistances to Export Oriented Industries
Export oriented industries are given special assistances in respect of the following
1.Free permission to have foreign collaboration.
2.Permission for increased capacity of production than the licensed capacity.
3.Preference in obtaining industrial license for various types.
4.Priority in importing capital equipments, machinery, spares and raw materials etc.
5.Priority for further expansion of the industry.
6.Indigenous raw materials are made available to the exporters.
5 Imports Benefits
Registered exporters can get the benefits of replenishment of import contents like
raw materials, accessories, spares etc against export of the product and can apply for
import license against exports of specified products.
6 Foreign Exchange
Exporters can obtain blanket permits of foreign exchange on the minimum export
ofRs.5,00,000 in the case of non-traditional goods and Rs.25,00,000 in the case of
the traditional goods like jute etc. Exporters can also import samples under the
blanket foreign exchange scheme.
7 Freight Concessions
Concessional Railway freight is allowed on the movement of a large number of export
products from their centers of productions to the ports of shipment. Cash assistance is
given against exports of some goods by air to compensate the high freight.
8 Special Concessions to Small Scale Industries
Special facilities and concessions available to small scale industries in respect of
finance, procurement of raw materials, marketing of products and imports.

9 Awards for Exporters
Exporters with the outstanding export performance are eligible for award by the
Government of India. The work relating to the product development, exploration of
difficult and new markets and distinct contribution in any of the exports fields are
taken into consideration for the grants of these awards.

10 Insurance Against Risks
Export involves a number of risks. The buyers may default or they go bankrupt.
There may be victim of war and quake which may wreck his fortunes. There may be
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some import restrictions. Goods sent by ship might be lost in the course of transit
etc.Exporters can easily pass all the burden of such types of risks to the Export Credit
Guarantee Corporation (ECGC) for a modest premium.
11 Raw Material Allocation
Arrangements for prompt and proper supplies of selected indigenous raw materials for
manufacturing units producing goods for export have been provided.
12 Duty Draw-backs
When a product is exported, it is entitled to
(a) Wavier or rebate of the central excise duty payable on the export products, and
(b) Draw-backs of the whole of the customs and central excise duties paid on raw
materials and components used in the manufacture of the export products.
13 Transport Concessions
The railway allows concessions of two kinds. One in the priority in the movement of
goods and the other rebate in the rail freights. The priority in the movement is available
for the raw materials required for the manufacture of articles for export available, for
the packing material, special priority label printed and distributed by the Ministry of
Commerce can be pasted on the wagon doors carrying export cargo so as to ensure
speedy movement.

SWOT Analysis

Strengths

1
o

Abundant availability of cotton in India

o

Cheap labour availibity of skilled labours

o

Capability in product development

o

Rich cultural heritage and immense diversity

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Weaknesses

2
o


Cotton production depends largely on rain

o

Small scale nature of the industry

o

Lack of expansion of the units

o

Lack of technological up-gradation

o

Delayed lead time

o

Infrastructural problems

o

Investment and technology

o

Lack of exact marketing information


o

Unbalanced sector wise (spinning, weaving and processing) developments
Opportunities

3

3

o

Falling market share of the newly entered countries

o

Multi fiber agreement phase out

o

Backward integrated production in knit sector

o

Increasing wage rates of competing countries

o

Dissatisfaction of USA / EU with China in certain aspects


o

Accelerated export effort

Threats
o

Competition and pressure on price and quality due to multi fiber agreement
phase out

o

Newly developing competing countries like Vietnam and Bangladesh

o

Unbalanced sector wise investments and developments

o

No balancing between large and small scale sectors

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Terms Used in Foreign Trades

1 Place and Mode of Delivery
Place where the buyer has to take the possession of the goods either by means of
physical delivery (directly receiving the goods) or constructive delivery (receiving the
documents like bills of lading or Railway receipts etc, which represent the goods).
2 Transport charges, Packing etc
Normally these charges will be collected from buyers only and some times paid by the
seller also.
3 Insurance against Risks involved in Transit
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Insuring for the goods is safe since there are many risks like fire, breakage, theft,
improper handling of middle-men etc. There are many insurance companies undertake
insurance. But it has to be decided who has to pay for the insurance.
4 C.I.F [Cost, Insurance, Freight]
C.I.F is normally included in the selling price itself. Seller undertakes all expenses
upto the place of destination of the buyer.
5 Mode of Payments
This has to be clearly stated by the seller in his quotations i.e. whether the payment is in
advance or against delivery or after a stipulated time along with the details of bank
through which the payments have to be made.
With respect to mode of payment following terms are used
•
•

•


Loco price – cost of goods plus a nominal profit for seller, cost of transportation,
insurance and all expenses to be paid by the buyer.
F.O.B. [Free on Board] – Transfer of the property and of the attendant’s risks
thereafter are all for the account of the buyer as soon the seller has placed the
goods on board. All expenses including placing on board and expenses incurred
when the goods were in charge of the seller. And all these expenses will be
included in the selling price itself. In USA it is necessary to precisely state
“F.O.B. Vessel” in order to distinguish it from “F.O.B. Rail car (wagon) or F.O.B.
Factory”.
F.A.S. [Free Alongside Ship] – Transfer of property and the attendant risks are
for the buyer as soon as the seller delivered the merchandise alongside the ship.
Here the expenses incurred is to be paid by the seller till this level but the cost of
placing on board from the freight and subsequent charges are for the account of
the buyer.

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Payment of Bills
•

O/D. [On demand] – Payments will be made on demand i.e on the presentation
of the bill. This is also called as sight bills.

•


C.O.D.[Cash on delivery] – Cash to be paid on delivery of the goods either
physically or against documents.

•

D/A. [Documents against acceptance] – Clearing the goods and selling before
the maturity of the bill which will be more convenient to the buyer but not to
the seller.

•

D/P. [Document against payment] – Documents will be held by the bank till the
date of maturity, if the importer undertakes to receive the goods and pay the
amount which is due for the bank and which has been paid to the seller.

•

L/C. [Letter of credit] – It is a letter issued by the banker of overseas importer
to the exporter or his bank so as to claim the payment from the particular bank
Workflow in Departments

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Competitiveness of Indian Apparel Export Firms

Indian apparel exporting firms have proved their competitiveness in some market
segments in recent years. Global trade in apparel is likely to change significantly due to
major changes in the international business environment. The paper takes a view that
Indian apparel export firms will have the opportunity to increase their global market share
provided they take the necessary steps to make themselves competitive in a quota- free
world after 31 December 2004. The analysis is based on a survey of leading Delhi-based
apparel exporting firms. Since the Delhi region accounts for India's largest apparel export
trade, these firms are among the top firms in the country in terms of apparel export sales
turnover. The paper studies select structural and operational parameters of Delhi firms
that could impact their performance in future and brings out critical issues that require
immediate attention. The paper also offers suggestions on how the government can
facilitate better management practices in apparel exporting firms so that they become
globally competitive.
Carporate Market
The corporatewear market can still be split into five segments. These are:

* workwear;
* careerwear;
* corporate casualwear;

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* uniforms;
* protective clothing.


The dividing lines between them are becoming ever more blurred. It is no longer possible to be
categorical about where workwear ends and protectivewear begins. To most people a standard
boilersuit made of poly/cotton is workwear. But if the fabric is impregnated with chemical dyes which
make it reflect light, and it therefore becomes a high visibility boilersuit, has it transformed into
protectivewear? The industry has suffered from becoming ‘commoditised’, as a result of irrevocable
and irreversible changes in the supply chain. Consequently the market has become fixated on price to
its own detriment.

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INITIATIVES TAKEN BY THE GOVERNMENT TO MAKE THE INDUSTRY GLOBALLY
COMPETITIVE
o

Setting up of US $ 6 Billion Technology Upgradation Fund for modernising the entire
value chain of the industry

o
o
o
o
o

Launching of a Technology Mission on Cotton to improve
the quality and productivity of raw cotton

Setting up of Special Economic Zones and Textile & Apparel Parks
Opening up of Textile Sector for Foreign Direct Investments
Progressive reduction of import duty on textile machinery and products

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Largest Markets
Following table (table. 2.1) gives the market shares of the major customers of India
Table. 2.1 Largest Markets
European Union

43.80%

United States

24.60%

Other Quota countries

5.60%

Non-Quota Countries

26.00%


Targeted Trading Countries
•

Quota Countries

1. United States of America
2. Canada
3.West European countries - Austria
Benelux (Belgium, Netherlands & Luxemburg)
Denmark
Finland
France
Germany
Greece
Italy
Portugal
Spain
Sweden
United Kingdom

•

Non-Quota Countries

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1. West Europe –

Ceuta
Switzerland

2. East Europe –

Bulgaria,
C.I.S
Czechoslovakia
Hungary
Poland
Romania

3. West Asia –

Bahrain
Israel
Kuwait
Oman
Qatar
Saudi Arabia
U.A.E

4. Oceania –

Australia
New Zealand


5. South and East Asia – Hong Kong
Japan
Malaysia
Singapore
South Korea
Taiwan

6. Africa –

Algeria
Canary Island
Kenya
Mauritius
South Africa
Sudan

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7. South America – Argentina
Brazil
Chile
Colombia
Mexico
Netherlands
Panama

Venezuela

Targeted customers

1 United States – Tommy Hil Figure
Levi Strauss and Co
Gap Inc
Liz Claiborn
V.F.Corporation
J.C.Penny Company
Wall-Mart Stores
May Department Stores
Federated Department Stores Inc
F.W.Wool Worth Company

2 Japan –

Mitsubishi Corporation
C.Itoh and Co
Sumitomo Corporation
Marubeni Corporation

3 France –

Studio Aventures
Sunvalley

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Export Growth in India

1 Total Export Growth in India
The following table (table. 2.2) gives the year wise total exports of India to various countries
Table. 2.2 Total Exports of India to various Countries
Year

Rupees
in crores

1991-92

44041.81

1992-93

53688.26

1993-94

69748.85

1994-95

82673.40


1995-96

106353.40

1996-97

118817.30

1997-98

1301007.00

1998-99

1416035.00

The table. 2.2 shows the total exports in values from India to various countries.
The table shows a tremendous increase from the year 1997-98 than the previous years which has
earned more foreign exchange and better opening hope to the Indian exporters. So there is a total
change in the year 1997-98 which put a basement to earn foreign currency.

SHARE OF TEXTILE & CLOTHING EXPORTS IN INDIA’S TOTAL EXPORTS

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SHARE OF EXPORTS OF VARIOUS CLASSIFIED SECTORS

HIGHEST EXPORTS FROM TEXTILE SECTOR

INDIAN GARMENT INDUSTRY - CURRENT ENVIRONMENT & FUTURE PROSPECTS
o
o
o
o
o
o

12.5% share in India’s commodity export basket.
Represents value added sub-sector.
Less import sensitive.
7% of Industrial production.
Export target of US$ 25 billion by 2010.
Future employment generation: Additional 6 lakhs jobs by 2005.


Source: Draft report of readymade garments for X Five year plan, National Textile Policy 2000-01.

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INDIA’S SHARE IN WORLD TRADE


Apparel Export Growth in India
The following table (table. 2.3) shows the year wise total apparel exports from India
Table. 2.3 Apparel Exports of India to various Countries

Year

Qty (pcs) in lakhs

Value in lakh US$

1985

2559

8660

1986

3008

10550

1987

3842

14380

1988


3967

15520

1989

4941

19130

1990

6027

24950

1991

6648

24010

1992

7585

28830

1993


9052

34670

1994

9960

44220

1995

10602

44740

1996

11847

47920

1997

13015

48640

1998


13380

50490

1999

14040

53230

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2000

15050

57450

2001

12643

45430


2002

12316

44100

Using the data in table. 2.3 graphs were plotted in Fig. 2.2 and Fig. 2.3 from which
the following points were observed
Quantity wise – There is a gradual and steady growth in the apparel exports from the year 1988 to
2000, but in the year 2001and 2002 there is a sudden fall.
Value wise - Even though there is increase from 1988 to 2000, there are some fluctuations then and
there. This may be even due to changes in the exchange rate of the currency. But in the years 2000 and
2001 there is a sudden fall in the graph.
By considering both the graphs there is a sudden fall which may be due to the diversion of our
orders to other countries like China, Bangladesh etc.
5 Apparels and Accessories Export Trade-Data of Competing Countries

2.5.1 Not-Knit Apparels and Accessories Exported to USA

Following tables (table. 2.4, table. 2.5 and table. 2.6) shows the year wise, country wise

Not-Knit (wovens etc) Apparels and Accessories Exported to USA from various countries

[value in thousands of US$].

Table. 2.4 Not-Knit Apparels and Accessories Exported to USA

year

China


HongKong

Indonesi

Bangladesh

a

Philippine
s

1989

1588557

2172436

412930

265316

541416

1990

2110809

2203501


445015

339610

666338

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1991

2303306

2195271

425147

338835

639603

1992

3073946

2397712


594067

516308

747340

1993

3787807

2226880

724039

556818

842639

1994

3511269

2329259

754713

697798

886061


1995

3276590

2265519

870299

775809

947952

1996

3510669

2109248

983684

797186

919073

1997

4161308

1930828


1132902

1025377

962868

1998

3811343

2184134

1196353

1167443

1048265

1999

3750519

2084823

1261736

1161605

1061924


2000

4167042

2223939

1500569

1471538

1185460

2001

4152517

2003698

1599968

1449558

1176582

2002

4478787

1951781


1456514

1260601

1038342

Table. 2.5 Not-Knit Apparels and Accessories Exported to USA

Year

India

Italy

Srilanka

SouthKorea

Thailand

France

1989

512078

585217

261709


1434239

174572

143062

1990

558117

571411

317523

1358404

207098

162610

1991

553824

579168

352983

1212154


246981

143305

1992

744530

593294

482308

1250587

355278

143496

1993

829645

599698

637076

1247709

468231


135963

1994

991176

681987

653643

1155854

486824

141231

1995

905131

822105

719439

1029907

563279

162945


1996

938104

949515

768952

877907

568597

167690

1997

1014761

1003083

911264

884451

637408

155006

1998


1110992

1068681

991755

1000937

652101

178120

1999

1135665

1039939

949814

1112527

711264

161871

2000

1377783


1041451

1079992

1267518

826926

162789

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2001

1275864

1025234

1070223

1122299

847171


174570

2002

1384733

1031864

1004306

919224

807535

176697

Table. 2.6 Not-Knit Apparels and Accessories Exported to USA

Year

Pakista

Nepal

Japan

Swiz

Spain


Total

n
1989

81587

39770

167879

8182

11956

13359914

1990

89787

42511

104535

9791

15923

14364048


1991

85752

41529

90139

14106

12908

14891865

1992

142264

64087

85134

15277

9320

17966676

1993


159095

77963

77400

18905

9601

19861507

1994

164544

104468

65791

20195

12087

21062179

1995

160680


77269

52752

26097

11013

22217488

1996

166850

76899

50554

27912

20094

22869540

1997

223184

63411


54687

38901

22758

25992603

1998

224326

79579

43516

36159

22181

28140633

1999

231502

118986

34853


37623

20964

28691939

2000

308334

143768

38741

36788

18986

32800552

2001

299743

108718

42633

28464


15499

31691335

2002

255422

75661

38531

25506

20989

30895566

Data of certain countries have only been given but total in the last
column indicates the total imports to USA from all over the world

From the above table, it is clear that China is in the top most level in exports of clothing. There are
tremendous

differences

between China and other countries. This statistics

shows


very much

confidence that there are greater opportunities available to export the not-knit (wovens etc) apparel
items to USA.

NIFT BANGALORE/ A.P. (DFT)/2008­12

24


SETTING UP OF A GARMENT INDUSTRY

There are a lot of fluctuations in values between the countries Indonesia, India, Thailand, South
Korea and Sri Lanka. So India can get the orders tremendously if the concentrations are made on the
points cited in the market trends of this project.

Knit Apparels and Accessories Exported to US
Following tables (table. 2.7, table. 2.8 and table. 2.9) shows the year wise, country wise Knit
Apparels and Accessories Exported to USA from various countries [value in thousands of US$].
Table. 2.7 Knit Apparels and Accessories Exported to USA

Year

China

Hongkon

Indonesi


Banglades

Philippine

g

a

h

s

1989

1068637

1632348

158213

59763

286487

1990

1086288

1659794


183716

88451

342030

1991

1131526

1746555

140095

98354

343720

1992

1401062

1869278

232419

171315

408709


1993

1509035

1713753

250749

144103

392726

1994

1574307

1994373

274859

149716

430383

1995

1376489

1995339


318705

220706

540576

1996

1514853

1818417

348495

223559

539651

1997

1836698

2041912

469936

306091

610830


1998

1859335

2263708

467064

330503

677105

1999

2024269

2189891

428228

363599

712296

2000

2034623

2268079


559271

470614

690502

2001

2277225

2198345

615068

480685

700451

2002

2619334

1949776

584960

494791

769030


Table. 2.8 Knit Apparels and Accessories Exported to USA

NIFT BANGALORE/ A.P. (DFT)/2008­12

25