Total Textile Process at a Glance

Finishing is a general term which usually refers to treatment on textile fabrics
after dyeing or printing.

It increase life and durability of the fabric.

By finishing we can maintain fabric shape and size.

Finishing accentuate or inhibiti some characteristic of fabric.

Impart new characteristic or properties.

Finishes may be done by chemically or mechanically.

To get good finished quality we should maintain machine parameter or proper
chemical recipe.

We can improve finished product quality by developing machine parameter or
create new and appropriate chemical recipe.
•
To improve the appearance of the fabric.
•
To improve the feel of the fabric by softening, stiffening, etc.
•
To cover faults in the original fabric.
•
To increase weight of the cloth.
•
Special properties required for particular uses .

Types of finishing
The most common classifications:

Aesthetic finishes

Functional finishes
Finishes also classifies:

Process Flow Chart of Finishing
Section:

After dyeing process from the dyeing machine then the fabrics are ready for de-watering. This is the
process to remove the water from the fabrics partially by squeezing.
Process flow chart:
Fig: Crossectional view of Bianco Tube Squeezer.
Basic function of the squeezing m/c:

To remove the water from the fabric.

To control the width of the fabric.

To control the length of the fabric.

To control the spirality of the fabric.

To control the over feeding system.

To increase the softness of the fabric.


To remove the crease mark of the fabric.
•
The slitting machine is used in processing fabrics in the open line in the finishing section.
Main Parts:
*Turn table; *Beater; *Rope; *De- twister; *Centering unit; *Slitting unit
*Pulley drive *Squeezing
Process flow chart:
Figure: Passage Diagram of Slitting Machine of Brueckner
Machine Functions:
•
To slit the tube fabric by the knife for opening of the fabric and ready for stentering.
•
Delivered fabric is crease free state.
•
Before squeezing balloon is formed with the help of compressed air passing by a nozzle or air
sprayer.
•
It can control the diameter of fabric and GSM and shrinkage by over feeding mechanism.
•
Soften the fabric by applying the softeners.
•
The machine is used for removing the residual water contained in the fabric after squeezing by applying
heat on the fabric in the machine.
•
the fabric is feed on the drying net at low over feed speed and the humidity is continuously measured.
•
Drying is done by applying heat through burner nozzles.
Main parts:
•
Heating chamber

•
Blower
•
Synthetic blanket as a conveyor
•
Folder
•
Exhaust fan
•
Steam valve
•
Conveyer roller
•
Tension roller
Machine Functions:
•
To dry the fabric with help of steam
•
To control the shrinkage
•
To prepare for next subsequent process
•
To dry tubular and open width fabric without tension.
•
To remove residual water containing in the fabric.
Stenter
Machine:
•
Stenter is used for open form fabric. It is the heart of open knit finishing sector.
Main Parts & Zones:

Back Zone:
#Guider ; #Two Baths & Padder or Squeezer; #Auto centering
Middle Zone:
#Over feed regions; #Bianco or Mahlo arrangement; #Chain & clip system;
#Chambers (Contains blower, heater, recovery)

Front Zone:
#Over feed zone ; #Plaiting; #Static electricity remover
Figure : Passage Diagram of Stenter
Machine Functions:
•
To control the shrinkage
•
To control the required GSM by overfeed
•
To control the required dia.
•
Heat setting
•
For straighten the fabric
•
To control bowing & bias (spirality)
•
For uniform moisture content
•
Finishing chemical application
•
Selvedge gumming & cutting
•
The treatment of knit fabrics in tubular form on the TUBULAR COMPACTOR meets the exacting

standards set by customers
Main Machine Parts:
•
Feed section: Tension control & Metal detector.
•
Shape: Set according to the dia. of fabric
•
Steam zone
•
Take out & Plaiter zone
•
Compacting Zone: It’s a roller & shoe arrangement & the most important zone which consists of two
rollers, the Feed roller (Recarter roller) & the Retard roller. They are heated by Shoe, into which hot
thermo-oil runs through.
Fig: Cross sectional View of Tube Compactor Machine
Basic functions of the Tube compactor machine:
•
To control the GSM. (Increase & decrease).
•
To control the dia.
•
To control the shrinkage. (Increase & decrease).
•
Width control through a stepless adjustable special tubular fabric spreader driven by variable speed
motor for distortion-free fabric guidance.
•
Steamping with a condensate-free steam box which is easily operated and completely made from
stainless stell.
•
Compacting through two Nomex felt belts.

•
Calendaring while passing between the felt belt and the heated shrinking rollers.
•
Open Width Compactor is suitable for open width knit fabrics to achieve exact dimensional stability and
a soft feel.
Main Parts of the Machine:
•
Heating chamber
•
Blower (2, one at the entry chain zone for uncurling and another at the entry of compacting zone)
•
ynthetic blanket as a conveyor,
•
Folder
•
Exhaust fan
•
Unpinning cylinder (-40% (+-)40%)
•
Belt cylinder (-40% ( +-)40%)
•
Uncurling device at entry of compacting zone.
•
Sensor
•
Brush roller
Figure: Passage diagram of Corino Open Compactor
Machine Function:
•
To compact the fabric

•
To control the shrinkage
•
To maintain proper width and G.S.M
•
To make the fabric surface smooth
•
During raising, the fabric surface is treated with sharp teeth to lift the surface fibres, thereby imparting
hairiness, softness and warmth, as in flannelette.
Main parts:
•
Return drag roller
•
Pile
•
Counter pile
•
Front drag roller
•
Suction pump
•
Drum
•
Plaiter roller
Feed
Delivery
Pile
Counter
pile
Front drag

Roller
Rear drag
Roller
Return drag
roller
Plaiter
roller
Figure : Cross-sectional view of Raising Brush machine
Machine Functions:
•
To obtain a lofty handle effect on fabric.
•
To obtain fleece appearance.
•
To create pile on fabric surface.
•
To produce a heavier surface made of fibers.
•
Softening treatment is one of the most important chemical after treatments in the textile industry.
•
By softening treatment textile can achieve not only soft handle but also:

Some smoothness.

More flexibility.

Drape and Pliability.

Antistatic properties.


Luster.

Soft handle.
Types of
softeners:
Advantages:
•
Resins have a profound effect on and cause changes in the hand (feel), drapability and physical
characteristics of textiles.
•
They add stiffness to fabrics and are thus used as stiffening agents or to create a firm hand.
•
Yarns in fabric will be stabilized and will resist shrinkage in laundering.
•
This finish imparts luster to the cotton.
•
Increases cotton strength by nearly 25% and improves dye affinity.
•
It is a method of thickening woollen material to make it more water-resistant
•
Nanotechnology is an umbrella term covering a wide range of technologies concerned
with structures and processes on the nanometric scale.
•
. Nanotechnology deals with the science and technology at dimensions of roughly 1 to 100
nanometers (1 Billion Nanotechnology = 1metre), although 100 nanometers presently is the
practically attainable dimension for textile products and applications.
•
The Nanotechnology can be used in engineering desired textiles attributes, such as fabric

softness, namely, water repellency, fire retardancy, antimicrobial resistance etc in fibers,
yarns and fabrics.
•
Enhancement of textile materials by nanotechnology is expected to become a trillion dollar
industry in the next decade, with tremendous economic and ecology benefits.
•
With the advent of nanotechnology, a new area has developed in the realm of textile
finishing.
Antimicrobial Finish:
•
It is a well-known fact that the growth of bacteria and microorganisms in food or water is
prevented hen stored in silver vessels due to its antibacterial properties.
•
The antibacterial properties of silver are now scientifically recognized.
•
Silver ions have been spectrum of antimicrobial activities.
•
The method of producing durable silver containing antimicrobial finish is to encapsulate silver
compound or nano particle with a fiber reactive polymer like poly (styrene-maleric anhydride).
•
Products which are commonly applied are brominated phenols, quaternary ammonium
compounds, organo-silver and tin compounds, which can be applied as solutions or
dispersions.
•
They can also be incorporated in a polymeric film deposited on the surface to achieve
controlled release.
•
The rays in the wavelength region of 150 to 400nm are known as ultraviolet radiations.
•
ultraviolet absorber finish of a fabric is present that absorbs ultraviolet radiation and blocks

its transmission through a fabric to the skin.
•
Metal oxides like ZnO as UV-blocker are more stable when compared to organic UV-
blocking agents.
•
Hence, nano ZnO will really enhance the UV-blocking property due to their increase
surface area and intense absorption in the UV region.
Properties of nano textiles Nanomaterials
Electro conductive/antistatic Carbon nanotubes(CNT)
Cυ
Polypyrrole
Polyaniline
Increased durability CNT
Polybutylacrylate
SiO2
ZnO
Self-cleaning/ dirt and water repellent CNT
SiO2 (as matrix)
TiO2
Moisture-absorbing Tio2
UV protection TiO2
ZnO
Fire proof CNT
Montmorillonite(Nano-Clay)
Heat conductive/isolating CNT
• Nano-processed garments have protective coating, which is water and
beverage repellent.
• Their protective layer is difficult to detect with the naked eye.
• Saving time and laundering cost.
• This technology embraces environment friendly properties.

• The crease resistant feature keeps clothing neat.
• Nano- processed products are toxic free.
• Garments stay bright, fresh looking and are more durable than ordinary
materials.
•
Manufacturing cost is low, adding value to the products.
•
Parameter:
•
Padder (1): 4-5 bar ; Padder (2): 3.5- 4 bar
Fabric type Fabric speed (m/min) Over feed %
Single jersey (Viscose) 50-70 30
Single jersey(Cotton/Lycra) 60-80 22
Single jersey(Cotton) 60-80 10-11
1x1 Rib 20-30 11
Interlock 20-30 14-15
terry 40-50 5-9
Single jersey- 180GSM (exp.) 70 25%
Checking point:
Diameter; Fabric speed; Overfeeds; Padder pressure
Development:

Wet Squeezer Marks

Softener Mark
Parameter:
Fabric type Speed
m/min
Over feed

%
Padder
Pressure 1
Padder pressure2
Single jersey 60-80 2.5-3 1.5 bar (chemical)- 2bar
(normal)
3 bar (chemical)- 4bar
(normal)
1×1 rib 30-40 2.5-3 1.25 bar (chemical) -3bar
(normal)
2.5 bar (chemical)-
3 bar (normal)
2×2 rib 20-30 2.5-3 1.25 bar (chemical) -3bar
(normal)
2.5bar (chemical)-
3 bar (normal)
Loop back 20-30 2.5-3 1.5 bar (chemical)- 2bar
(normal)
3 bar (chemical)- 4bar
(normal)
Single jersey
(160GSM) EXP
75 2.8 1.5 bar 3 bar
Checking point:
Needle line; machine speed.
Development:

Softener spot

Improper slitting