PM 1677 Reviewed & Reprinted March 2004
Tree Planting:
Establishment and Care
Millions of trees are planted on both private and public
lands in Iowa. Purposes for planting trees include timber
production, fiber production, erosion control, wildlife
habitat improvement, riparian buffer creation, improve-
ment of stocking or composition in open woodlands,
Christmas tree production, shelterbelt establishment,
fuelwood production, watershed protection, energy
conservation, and beautification.
Successful tree planting involves a series of steps, each
one dependent upon the others. This publication and
Tree Planting: Planning, Pm-1676, discuss the steps for
successful tree planting, including (1) planning, (2) site
preparation, (3) selecting and ordering planting stock,
(4) caring for the nursery stock, (5) planting methods,
and (6) plantation maintenance.
Caring for Nursery Stock
In Iowa, the ideal time to plant seedlings is between late
March and mid-May, depending on weather. Plant early
to aid sufficient root system development and to avoid
the stress of hot and dry weather. If soil conditions are
suitable, about 40
o
F and moist, but not wet, plant the
nursery stock as soon as received from the nursery.
If possible, inspect for quality before accepting plant
material from a nursery. Nursery stock is packaged and
shipped in wax coated boxes, in plastic bags in larger
paper bags, or rolled in plastic or moisture-resistant

paper. Examine the containers for damage. Inspect the
stock for dry roots, swelled or opened buds, mold on
needles or stems, and physical damage such as broken
stems or stripped roots. If stock is damaged, return it to
the nursery for replacement or refund.
Plant the stock as soon as possible; survival rate gener-
ally decreases as time between shipping and planting
increases. If planting must be delayed for a week or less,
store the stock in a cool, dark, damp place such as a
cellar, milk house, or unheated building. Make sure the
root systems of the seedlings remain moist. This may
require resetting packing material or turning trees
packed in plastic inside paper bags daily. If it is necessary
to hold trees for more than a week, keep them in cold
storage (35 to 40° F) and make sure the root systems of
the seedlings remains moist.
“Heeling in,” or planting seedlings in shallow soil pits
for long-term storage, is not recommended. It causes
significant damage to the fragile root system. Do not
immerse seedlings in water for storage. Planting as soon
as possible is the best course of action.
Root pruning may be beneficial in some cases. After
planting, new root initiation often occurs at the site of
wounding; clean, fresh wounds may provide a more
vigorous root system. If the plants have minimal roots,
however, root pruning may result in greater mortality.
For root pruning to be beneficial, the plant must have a
sufficient number of roots at least 1/16 inch in diameter
(at least five to six for oak, ash, and walnut); the roots
remaining after pruning must be at least four inches in

length. Seedlings with more roots compared to the shoot
survive better and grow faster than seedlings with
inadequate root systems compared to the shoot.
When moving seedlings from storage to the planting site,
take only the number of seedlings that you can plant in
half a day or less. Keep roots moist; avoid exposure to
high temperatures or drying conditions. Soak roots in
water for two to three hours before planting. Carry trees
in buckets with roots covered with muddy water or one
of the hydrophilic gels or moisture enhancers. Use water
in the boxes or containers provided on tree planters to
keep the root systems moist until the seedling is in the
ground. Leave containers in the shade until the seedlings
are removed for planting. Remove only what can be
planted in one to two hours.
Tree Planting Rules
• Plant trees one inch deeper than they grew in the nursery
• Make sure hole or slit is large enough for the tree
• Avoid J-roots when planting
• Plant trees straight
• Keep roots cool and moist until in the ground
• Arrange roots naturally
• Firm the soil around the root system
• Plant when soil conditions are right
• Plant early rather than late
Planting Methods
There are two basic tree planting methods. Hand
planting is appropriate when planting a small number of
seedlings or if the site is not conducive to equipment
operation. Planting 500 seedlings is a good day’s work if

using this method. For larger areas that lend themselves
to equipment operation, tree transplanters or planting
machines facilitate the task. Tree planters can plant
from 500 to 1,000 or more trees per hour.
Hand Planting
Hand tools used for tree planting include power augers,
hoe dads, planting bars, shovels, spades, tree bars, and
any other tools that make a suitable opening for the
planting stock.
There are two basic techniques for hand planting: the
hole method and the slit method. The hole method may
be the best planting method because the roots are
spread over a larger soil area, resulting in greater uptake
of water and nutrients. Also, the soil placed around the
root system is fine, ensuring better soil to root contact.
Dig a hole in the soil large enough for the root system.
Spread out the roots and pack the soil firmly around
them in order to exclude air. The use of power augers
makes hand planting easier. A slight variation uses a
shovel, spade, or hoe dad to
dig a hole with a straight
side. Place the tree along
this side and replace the
soil. If trees are to be
watered, make a dish
around the seedling to
facilitate the watering.
The slit method is faster than the hole method. Using a
planting bar, shovel, or spade, make a vertical slit in the
soil. Insert the roots of the plant and close the slit at

both the top and bottom. When planting bigger stock
with large root systems, the shovel or spade may be
better sized for slit planting than the tree planting bar.
Do not crowd tree roots. Firmly close the slit around the
root system to prevent drying. The roots should fall
straight down in the opening to avoid J-rooting. J-roots
are roots that bend in the planting hole back towards
the soil surface. Exposed roots act like a wick, removing
moisture from the soil surrounding the plant. J-roots
may not develop properly, causing plant stress.
Slit Method
Hole Method
Step 1 Step 2
Step 3 Step 4
Machine
Planting
A tree planter is a
machine attached to a
tractor that makes a slit
in the soil. Seedlings,
transplants, or cuttings
are placed in the slit.
Packer wheels close the
slit and firm the soil
around the root system.
Tree planters may
be loaned or rented
from County
Conservation Boards,
DNR Wildlife Units, or forestry service providers. A

planter commonly available is the “Forester,” which is
designed to plant pine on level, sandy sites. It is capable
of planting on tougher sites, but its maximum depth is
10 inches. When planting larger stock (hardwoods) a
larger planter must be used. Within the past five years,
larger tree planters have become more available in
the state.
Mechanical tree planters are only as good as their
operators. Adjustments may be required for depth and
firmness of packing around the seedlings. On slopes,
machines must be leveled to the slope to avoid plowing;
always plant on the contour to avoid soil erosion.
Correct spacing of trees can usually be achieved by
adjusting the speed of the tractor, or by using a measur-
ing or marking device to determine when to plant each
tree. It is a good idea to have a person walk behind the
tree planter to straighten crooked trees and make sure
the slits have been closed.
Plantation Maintenance
Iowa soils and climate provide an ideal environment for
intense competition from weeds. Lack of weed control is
the primary reason for planting failure. Effective weed
control enhances tree survival and growth, and results in
faster conversion of a tree planting to a woodland.
Methods for controlling competing vegetation include
mowing, mulching, mechanical cultivation, and chemi-
cal (herbicide) use. Most plantings require three to five
years of weed control. After this period, trees are taller
than other vegetation and have developed sufficient root
systems to compete with other plant materials on the

site. The period of weed control may need to be longer
on poor sites or when using slower growing species.
Weed control should cover the same area as site prepara-
tion. An area at least three feet in diameter around each
tree is required. Larger weed control areas (up to five to
six feet in diameter) encourage more rapid root system
occupation of the site. Weeds either can be controlled
around individual plants or in three- to six-foot-wide
strips along the rows of a plantation.
Mowing
Mowing by itself is the poorest form of weed control. It
stimulates increased root growth of grasses and does not
control the roots of competing vegetation. Close mowing
around trees often results in basal damage or main stem
wounding. Mowing is often used in combination with
other methods to control the height of competing
vegetation, identify tree rows, and reduce rodent habitat
in fall and winter.
Tree planted
correctly
“J” roots
File: Forestry 2
Mulches
Organic mulching is an excellent method of weed
control. Four to six inches of mulch material (wood
chips, sawdust, ground bark, etc.) provides weed
control for three to five years, conserves moisture
around the plant, reduces temperature extremes, and
provides nutrients as it decays. The availability and
handling problems of mulches prohibit their application

to large scale plantings. If it can be done, however,
mulching provides excellent weed control and
other benefits.
Sawdust or other finely ground wood products tie up
nitrogen as they decay; to reduce this problem, avoid
mixing soil with the mulch. Mulches from black walnut
should be composted for at least one year to reduce
complications from juglone, a growth inhibitor found
in walnut.
Mechanical Cultivation
Shallow cultivation works well for weed control.
Cultivating often enough to control weeds without
causing damage to the trees’ expanding root systems is
essential. Be aware that cultivation may stimulate the
germination of dormant seeds as they are brought closer
to the surface.
The “Weed Badger” is an example of a piece of equip-
ment designed for cultivation of tree plantations. A light
disk or harrow can be used to control weeds mechani-
cally as well.
Chemical (herbicide) Use
Several chemicals can be used to
control grass and weed competition.
Good initial site preparation is the
key for success with pre-emergent herbicides.
There are some herbicides that can be used to control
established or existing vegetation around trees. These
generally are used to rescue a plantation from competi-
tion. For more information on herbicides and their use,
obtain the Iowa DNR publication Weed Control for Tree

and Shrub Seedlings from Forestry Extension at Iowa
State University, your district forester, or the Iowa DNR.
Prepared by Paul H. Wray, extension forester.
. . . and justice for all
The U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) prohibits discrimination in all its programs and activities
on the basis of race, color, national origin, gender, religion, age, disability, political beliefs, sexual
orientation, and marital or family status. (Not all prohibited bases apply to all programs.) Many
materials can be made available in alternative formats for ADA clients. To file a complaint of
discrimination, write USDA, Office of Civil Rights, Room 326-W, Whitten Building, 14th and
Independence Avenue, SW, Washington, DC 20250-9410 or call 202-720-5964.
Issued in furtherance of Cooperative Extension work, Acts of May 8 and June 30, 1914, in
cooperation with the U.S. Department of Agriculture. Stanley R. Johnson, director, Cooperative
Extension Service, Iowa State University of Science and Technology, Ames, Iowa.