The food lab better home cooking through science ( PDFDrive ) 390
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The goal with marinating is to maximize contact between
the meat and the marinade.To do this, marinate your meat
in a plastic zipper-lock bag with all the air squeezed out (I
do this by leaving a small air hole along one edge of the
zipperlock,squeezingalltheairtowardsit,thensealingitat
the last moment before juices start leaking out), or, even
better,sealthesteaksinaCryovac-stylebagwithavacuum
sealer.
Timing-wise,youshouldmarinateforatleast1andupto
12 hours. Less, and the marinade simply doesn’t stick as
well.More,andthemeatwillstarttogetabittoomushyand
chalky around the edges, having a slightly cooked
appearancefromanyacidsorproteasespresent.
THESIXINEXPENSIVESTEAKS
YOUSHOULDKNOW
There are dozens of cuts sold in supermarkets as cheap
steak options, but here are my six favorites.These are the
pieces of the steer that chefs love to use because not only
aretheylessexpensive,butthey’vegotcharacter.
The high-end steaks are all cut from the same general
regionofthesteer—alongtheribsandspine.Why?Because
the muscles in that area—the longissimus dorsi and the
psoasmajor—dolittletonoworkduringthesteer’slifetime.
Theyarelarge,tender,andremarkablyeasytocutintobig,
juicy,meatysteaks.
The so-called butcher’s steaks, on the other hand, come
fromalloverthesteer,andthey’renotalwaysquiteaseasy
to extract. Many of them are whole muscles that must be
trimmed just so to be tender enough and large enough to
cookassteaks.Therearealsonotmanyofthemonasteer.
Forevery20poundsofrib-eyeandT-bonesteaksyoucan
get from a steer, for example, you’ll get perhaps 1 to 2
poundshangersteak.
Thesebutcher’scutstendtobemoreflavorfulbecauseof
the work the muscles do, but because they’re not as
marketabletothegeneralpublicandrequireabitmoreskill
to cook and serve, they remain much cheaper than their
mainstreamcounterparts.Thisisgoodnewsforyou!
Here are the six steaks worth knowing. Some of them—
likeflank—areedgingupinpricetothenot-so-inexpensive
range,butnomatterwhereyoushop,you’reboundtofind
oneofthematareasonableprice.
