The food lab better home cooking through science ( PDFDrive ) 244
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CREAMYBROCCOLIPARMESANSOUP
Thiscreamysoupreliesonthethickeningandemulsifying
power of a roux—cooked flour and butter—to give it a
creamy consistency without the need for heavy cream,
whichcandullflavors.Foralong,longtime,drabarmygreen vegetables got a bad rap, but I’m trying to bring
sexy back to thoroughly cooked broccoli (and green
beans).Therearedefinitelygreatthingstobesaidabout
snappy, bright green stalks, but the flavor that develops
whenbroccoliiscookedtowell-doneisunmatchedbythat
ofitsaldentecounterpart.Atouchbitter,ahintofsulfur
(in a good way), and a rich, grassy depth all emerge as
thestalkssoften.
Theonlydownsidehereisthatwaitingforbroccolito
softenthismuchcanbeatediousprocessthattakesupto
anhourormore.Butthere’sanoldtrickthattheEnglish
usetomaketheirtraditionalfish’n’chipssideofmushy
peas:addsomebakingsodatothewater.Bakingsoda
raisesthepHoftheliquid,causingthepectinthatholds
thecellsofthebroccolitogethertosoften.Justatiny
pinchisenoughtocutsimmeringtimedownbytwo-thirds.
Toaddsomedepthtothesoup,Itossinahandfulof
anchovies(youcanskipthemforavegetarianversion),as
wellasagoodamountofgratedParmesan,whosenutty
tangplaysnicelyoffthedeepflavorofthebroccoli.A
handfulofquickbutterycroutonsaddsbothtextureand
flavor.
SERVES6
5tablespoonsunsaltedbutter
1mediumonion,finelydiced(about1cup)
4mediumstalkscelery,finelydiced(about1cup)
2mediumclovesgarlic,mincedorgratedona
Microplane(about2teaspoons)
4anchovyfillets,finelychopped(optional)
3tablespoonsall-purposeflour
2cupsmilk
2cupshomemadeorlow-sodiumcannedchickenstockor
vegetablestock,plusmoreifnecessary
¼teaspoonbakingsoda
