The food lab better home cooking through science ( PDFDrive ) 192
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HOTCHOCOLATEMIX
As a kid, I loved hot chocolate mix. I’d eat it straight from
the packet, licking it greedily off my finger. I’ve never,
however,likeditasitismeanttobeserved:mixedwithhot
water or milk. Thin and watery, too sweet or not sweet
enough,withlittlechocolateflavor.
Whilerealhomemadehotchocolateisnotallthathardto
make (dissolve cocoa in butter, add chocolate and sugar,
maybe some vanilla and/or bourbon, add milk, and whisk
while heating), you can’t deny the convenience of simply
stirringafewtablespoonsofpowderintoacupofhotmilk.
SoIdecidedtocomeupwithahomemaderecipethatwould
match the convenience of a powder and beat it in terms of
flavorandprice.
Tostart,Itriedsimplygrindingchocolatetoapowderin
thefoodprocessor(freezingitfirstmakesthiseasy).While
that made decent cups, by the time I’d added enough
chocolatetothemilktogettheflavorIwanted,therichness
of the cocoa butter started to dominate, making drinking a
fullmugdifficult.
I opted instead for a combination of 100%-cacao
(unsweetened) chocolate, sugar, and Dutch-process cocoa.
With these tweaks, my chocolate was tasting pretty good,
but a few problems remained: It caked in the storage
containerovernight,makingithardtodissolvethenextday.
It broke when added to the milk, dispersing a fine layer of
fat bubbles over the surface of the drink. And the result
simplywasn’trich,thick,andcreamyenough.
Many commercial mixes contain soy lecithin or dried
milk proteins, both of which are intended to increase
creaminess and help keep the milk fat, cocoa butter, and
liquid nicely smooth and emulsified. I tried adding soy
lecithin to my mix and it worked, but I decided against it
(it’s available in health food stores, but hardly a
commonplace ingredient). Milk powder also helped with
texture,butitleftthechocolatewithadistinctcooked-milk
flavor—notright.
In the end, the simplest solution was to add some
