The food lab better home cooking through science ( PDFDrive ) 241
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to give the soup some body and help keep the butterfat
properlyemulsifiedintothemix.
Thegreatthingaboutthisstock-infusingtechniqueisthat
it’stotallyadaptable.SometimesIfeellikemakingasmooth
and sweet corn velouté, which I’ll make like my chowder,
but omitting the potatoes and cream and blending until
completely smooth.And if you do like the flavor of bacon
inyourchowder,goforit—nothing’sstoppingyou,except
perhapsyourcholesterolandyourspouse.
I, fortunately, have a spouse who can be plied with corn
soupwhenIreallywanttogetmyway.MightIsuggestyou
trythesame?
HowtoBuyCorn
Want to know the secret to great chowder or corn on the
cob? Great corn. It’s as simple as that.The trick is getting
thecorn.Afterthat,it’sacakewalk.
The first time I tasted really great corn—one of those
early food memories that made me realize food was more
than just fuel—was on a second-grade field trip to an
UpstateNewYorkfarm:me andthefarmeronatractor,the
farmer grabbing an ear of corn as he drove by the field,
shuckingit,andhandingittometotaste.InmyheadIwas
thinking, “Holy Skeletor! I’d trade in my Battle-Armor HeMan for more of this!” which roughly translates to my
current vocabulary as, “Holy f*&k, this tastes amazing!”
(My eloquence has diminished significantly through the
years.)Incrediblysweet,bright,andflavorful,itbecamethe
epitome of good corn in my mind, the corn that all corn
since has tried to live up to—something that happens only
rarely.
Becauseoftheresultofahappymutationseveralhundred
years ago, sweet corn has a far higher concentration of
sugar in its kernels than regular old field corn (that’s the
stuff they feed animals with). But here’s the hitch: as soon
as the ear leaves the stalk, that sugar begins converting to
starch. Within a single day of harvest, an ear of corn will
lose up to 50 percent of its sugar when left at room
temperature—and even more, up to 90 percent, when it’s
sittingoutinthehotsunatthefarmers’market.
Moral of the story. Buy your corn as fresh as possible
(from the farmer if you can!), refrigerate it as soon as you
can,andcookitthedayyoubuyit.
