The food lab better home cooking through science ( PDFDrive ) 375
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taperedendbackonitselfandtieitinplacetogetaneven
thicknessalongthewholelengthofthetenderloin.Orcut
off the tapered end and the fatter end and save them for
anotheruse(7);thiswillyieldyouacenter-cuttenderloin
roast, which is what you want for a perfect-presentation
roastorforsteaks(8).
PANSAUCES
Youmaynoticeaftercookingyoursteakinaskilletthat
you’releftwithabrownishresidueonthebottomofthe
pan.Don’tscrubitout!
Yousee,asmeatcooksandshrinks,itexudesjuicesthatare
loadedwithproteins.Asthesejuicesevaporate,theproteins
end up on the bottom of the pan, where they eventually
stick and brown—exactly like the browned proteins on the
surface of your steak. The French, who seem to have a
fancy-sounding word for everything, call thisfond, as in
fondation,orfoundation,becauseit’stheflavorbasethatall
goodpansaucesarebuilton.HereinAmericathetechnical
termistasty-brown-gunk-on-the-bottom-of-the-pan.
