The food lab better home cooking through science ( PDFDrive ) 427
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gettinggoodcontactwith
thepan.
Sirloin
Chop
Cutfromnearthebackend
oftheloin,thischop
containstonsofmuscles
fromthehipandham.
Comparedtotheother
chops,it’stoughandnot
particularlytasty,andI
don’tbuyitveryoften.
Pork has a particular affinity for sweet sauces, so when
servingit,Iusuallyliketomakeafruitpreserve–basedpan
sauce (here), or perhaps one flavored with maple syrup
(here)orevenapplesandcider(here).
ENHANCEDPORK
U
nlike beef, which has a ton of internal fat, most
pork these days is relatively lean, making it very
easytoovercook.Onewaytofixthisproblemisby
briningit(seehere).Justaswithturkeyandchicken,
a soak in a saltwater solution can cause the meat’s
protein structure to loosen up, allowing it to retain
more moisture as it cooks, though, just as with
poultry, it’ll also dilute the flavor. Pork producers
figured this out a while ago, and many of them
started injecting their pork with a briny solution.
The vast majority of industrially raised pork in this
country is now sold in this form, known as
“enhanced” pork. To see if your pork has been
enhanced,checkthelabel:ifitis,it’llsaysomething
like“withupto10%sodiumsolution.”
Seems convenient, right? Prebrined meat?
Unfortunately,thebrinesolutionsitsinthemeatfor
far too long. Rather than tasting simply juicy, most
enhancedporkbordersonspongy,withanoddhamlike texture. I much prefer to buy unenhanced
naturalporkanddry-brineitmyself,allowingmeto
control exactly how much liquid it retains.
Oftentimes I don’t brine it at all, knowing that if I
cook them carefully and monitor the temperature,
thechops’llstillendupniceandjuicy.
To dry-brine pork chops, season well on all
surfaceswithkoshersalt.Placeonawireracksetin
a rimmed baking sheet and refrigerate, uncovered,
foratleast45minutesandupto3days.
BUCKLEUP!
