The food lab better home cooking through science ( PDFDrive ) 178
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form of soda water? It’s a trick that New Englanders have
used forever: the beer in beer-battered fish is just as much
about the leavening power of the bubbles as it is about the
flavor of the ale. Even the Japanese use soda water to
achieve an extra-light tempura. Using soda water does cut
back a little on the flavor of the waffles, but it’s nottoo
noticeable,andit’sacompromiseI’mwillingtomakeinthe
name of superior texture. A dash of vanilla (or orange
liqueur,orevenmapleextractandbacon,ifyou’dlike)adds
plenty of flavor to keep you distracted. It’s important that
you use ice-cold club soda. Cold liquids retain carbonation
better,andyouwantthebattertostayasbubblyaspossible
untilitstartscooking.Clubsodaissuperiortoseltzerwater
inthiscase,becauseitcontainssodium,whichalsohelpsit
toretainitsbubbles.
Crispness is all about dehydration and the setting of
proteins,boththingsthatareaccomplishedthroughheatand
time.Thekeytoextra-crispwaffles?Justcookthemalittle
moreslowlyforalittlebitlonger.Notonlydoesthisleadto
superiortexture,italsoserendipitouslyresultsinmoreeven
browning
BASICQUICK
WAFFLES
MAKES8SMALLROUNDWAFFLES,FOUR4-WELL
BELGIAN-STYLEWAFFLES,OR4LARGESQUARE
WAFFLES,SERVING4
1recipeBasicDryPancakeMix(here)
2largeeggs
1½cupsbuttermilk
4tablespoonsunsaltedbutter,melted
1cupice-coldclubsoda
1teaspoonvanillaextract
Butteroroilforthewaffleiron
Maplesyrup
1.Preheatanelectricwaffleiron,onthelow-heatsettingif
youhavetheoption,oraheatastovetopwaffleironover
medium-lowheat.Placethedrymixinalargebowl.
2.Inamediumbowl,whisktheeggwhitesuntilstiffpeaks
form. In a clean large bowl, whisk the egg yolks and
buttermilk until homogeneous. Slowly drizzle in the
butterwhilewhisking.Carefullyfoldtheeggwhitesinto
the yolk mixture with a rubber spatula until just
combined.Foldinthesodawater.Pourthemixtureover
the dry mix and fold until just combined (there should
stillbeplentyoflumps).
