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The food lab better home cooking through science ( PDFDrive ) 177

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1cupFreshRicotta(here),drainedfor30minutes
2tablespoonsunsaltedbutter,meltedandslightlycooled
2largeeggs
½teaspoonvanillaextract
1cupBasicDryPancakeMix(here)
2teaspoonsgratedlemonzest(from1lemon)
Vegetableoilforcooking
Maplesyrup
1. Whisk together the buttermilk, ricotta, melted butter,
eggs, and vanilla extract in a medium bowl. Add the
pancakemixandlemonzestandwhiskuntilnodryflour
remains (the mixture should remain lumpy—be careful
nottoovermix).
2. Heat ½ teaspoon oil in a 12-inch heavy-bottomed
nonstickskilletovermedium-highheat(oruseanelectric
griddle) until it shimmers. Reduce the heat to medium
andwipeouttheskilletwithapapertowel.Usea¼-cup
dry measure to scoop 4 pancakes into the pan and cook
on the first side until bubbles start to appear on top and
the bottoms are golden brown, 2 to 3 minutes. Flip the
pancakesandcookuntilthesecondsideisgoldenbrown,
about2minuteslonger.Servethepancakesimmediately,
or keep warm on a wire rack set on a baking sheet in a
warmovenwhileyoucooktheremainingbatches.Serve
withmaplesyrup.


WAFFLES
Wafflesarelikethecoolcousinofpancakes:abitmore
complicated,abitmoreinteresting,andabitcrustieron
theoutside.


But deep down, they’re almost identical. When we’re
talking quickAmerican-style waffles (as opposed to, say, a
traditionalslow-risingyeasted,chewyBelgianwaffle),we’re
talkingachemicallyleavenedbatter,justlikewithpancakes.
Buttrythrowingyourpancakebatterintoawaffleiron,and
you will run into trouble. With pancakes, the steam
evaporatingasthepancakescookhasaneasyescaperoute
—you can see it coming out of the top of the pancakes as
bubbles form.With a waffle trapped inside its metal cage,
it’snotsoeasy.Wafflesmadefrompancakebattercomeout
gummy,withadistinctlackofcrispness.
ButIwantedtobeabletostartmywaffleswithmybasic
pancake mix so that I wouldn’t have to keeptwo mixes on
handinmypantry.Irealizedthesolutionhadtobetwofold:
I needed extra leavening power to help the waffles rise in
their constrained environment, and I needed a method to
ensurethattheygotcrispfasterandstayedcrisp.
I first tried adding a bit of extra baking powder and
bakingsodawhenImixedupmybatter.Ithelpedwiththe
texture, but with too much chemical leavening, that soapy,
metallic flavor started creeping in. I’d have to find a
physicalmeanstoleavenmybatterinstead.
I was already adding a good deal of bubbles with my
whippedeggwhites—whatifIweretoaddevenmoreinthe



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