On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 1144
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whilemakingitsomewhatharderforthe
thickenerproteinstobondtoeachotherand
coagulate.Theinclusionofflourorstarchcan
protectsauceproteinsfromcoagulating;the
longstarchmoleculesgetinthewayofthe
proteinsandpreventthemfromformingmany
strongbondswitheachother.
Ifyoudoovercookaprotein-thickened
sauceanditseparatesintothinliquidand
grainyparticles,youcansalvageitby
remixingthesauceinablender,strainingitof
anyremainingcoarseparticles,andif
necessaryrethickeningitwithwhatever
materialsarehandy(eggyolks,flour,or
starch).
Egg Yolks Egg yolks are the most efficient
proteinthickeners,inpartbecausetheyareso
concentrated: egg yolks are only 50% water
and 16% protein. They are also the handiest,
being a common, inexpensive ingredient, and
theirproteinsarealreadyfinelydispersedina
rich, creamy fluid. They’re mainly used to
thicken
light-colored
white
sauces,
blanquettes, and fricassees. Yolk-thickened
sauces can be brought to the boil as long as
they’realsopartlythickenedbystarch.
Sabayonsaucesarealsopartlythickened
bythecoagulationofyolkproteins(p.639).
Liver Liver is a flavorful thickener, but has
the disadvantage of requiring disintegration
beforeitcanbeused.Thecoagulableproteins
are concentrated inside its cells, so the cook
must break the cells open by pounding the
tissue, and then strain away the particles of
connectivetissuethatholdthecellstogether.
Blood Blood is the traditional thickening
agentincoqauvin,theFrenchroosterinwine
sauce,andinbraisesofgameanimals(civets).
It’s about 80% water and 17% protein, and
consists of two phases: the various cells,
includingtheredcellscoloredbyhemoglobin,
and the fluid plasma in which the cells float.
