On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 1143
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thicken the sauce. If heated excessively, the
chains aggregate and coagulate in compact
clumps (right)that give the sauce a curdled
consistencyandappearance.
CarefulTemperatureControlCooksfirst
maketheflavorfulbutthinliquidthatwillbe
thebulkofthesauceandthenaddasourceof
finelysuspendedproteins.Anexampleisthe
fricassee,inwhichtheliquidisthestockin
whichchickenoranothermeathasbeen
cooked,andtheproteinsourceiseggyolks.
Themixtureisthenheatedgently.Atthe
pointthattheproteinsunfoldandbeginto
tangle—butbeforetheyformstrongbonds
—thesaucethickensnoticeably:itclingstoa
spoonratherthanrunningoff.Theattentive
cookimmediatelytakesthesaucefromthe
heatandstirs,thuspreventingtheproteins
fromformingverymanystrongbonds,until
thesaucecoolsenoughtopreventfurther
bonding.Ifthesaucegetstoohotandthe
proteinsdoformstrongbonds,theyclot
togetherintodenseparticles,andthesauce
becomesgrainyandthinsoutagain.Most
animalproteinscoagulatebeginningaround
140ºF/60ºC,butthiscriticalpointcanvary,so
there’snosubstituteforcarefulmonitoringof
thesauce’sconsistency.Oncethesaucehas
thickened,carefulstrainingcanremovethe
fewparticlesthatmayhaveformed.
Inallprotein-thickenedsauces,thecook
musttakecarewhenmixingthehotsauce
withthecoolthickener.It’salwayssafestto
stirsomeofthesauceintothethickener,thus
heatingthethickenergentlyanddilutingit,
andthenaddthatmixturetotherestofthe
sauce.Ifthethickenergoesdirectlyintothe
sauce,thensomeofthethickenerwillget
instantlyoverheatedandcoagulateintograiny
particles.Cookssometimesworkpastesof
liverorshellfishorgansintobutterandthen
chillthemix.Whenachunkofthemixis
addedtothesauce,thebuttermeltsand
slowlyreleasesthethickenerintothesauce,
