The food lab better home cooking through science ( PDFDrive ) 222
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takingatbestseveralhours,andatworst,afullday
ofsoaking,followedbysimmering.SoIdidwhatany
sensible,sobermanwoulddo:Iboughtthemcanned.
There are a couple of distinct advantages that
cannedbeanshaveoverdried.Forone,theirtexture
is pretty much always spot on. Bean canners have
got the process down to an art, and you’d now be
hard-pressedtoopenacanandfindbeansthatwere
broken,chalky,hard,oranythingshortofperfectly
creamy and intact—not always an easy thing to
accomplish at home. For another thing, canned
beanscomewithsomenice,full-bodiedliquid.Many
recipes tell you to rinse the stuff off. That makes
sense if you’re making, say, a bean salad, but the
liquid is awesome in soups, adding flavor and body
toanotherwisethinbroth.
There’sonlyonerealproblemwithcannedbeans:
flavor.
Withdriedbeans,youhavetheoptionofcooking
yourbeansinanynumberofmedia—water,chicken
stock, pork broth, dashi, a sweet molassesy tomato
sauce—and adding whatever aromatics you like—
onions, carrots, celery, bay leaves, thyme, pork fat
—inordertogetflavorbuiltrightintothem.Canned
beans, on the other hand, are designed to have a
neutralflavorthatwillworkmoderatelywellinany
dishbutshineinnone.
Luckilyforus,therearemeanstogettingabitof
flavorbackintothoseguys.
Most simple canned bean soup recipes call for
mixingtheingredientstogether,bringingthesoupto
aboil,andservingitimmediately.There’snofaultin
doing that—canned beans, after all, are a
convenience food. But what if I told you that by
addingatonofflavorfularomaticingredientsanda
quick (15-minute) simmer, you could amplify the
qualityofyoursoupbyanorderofmagnitude?*
OK,nodramaticdrumrollthere,Iguess.Let’sbe
honest:theseare30-minutebeansoups.Theyaren’t
goingtochangeyourlifetheway,say,buyingyour
bestfriendalotteryticketthathappenstobeworth
millions of dollars would, but they may well change
yourweeknightcookingroutine.
