On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 1141
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eachother,theyformdelicategelsthatmelt
farbelowmouthtemperature,at70ºF/20ºC
andlower.
WineinSauceMaking
Winesenterintothemakingofavarietyof
sauces, and sometimes are the main
ingredient, as in the Burgundiansauce
meurette (red wine reduced by half with
meat and vegetables, then thickened with
flour and butter). They contribute several
flavor elements, including the tartness of
their acids, the sweetness of any residual
sugar, the savoriness of succinic acid, and
their distinctive aromas. The aromas are
modified by cooking, while the tartness,
sweetness, and savoriness are not, and
becomeconcentratedifthewineiscooked
long enough to reduce it. The alcohol in
wine can seem harsh when warm, so the
wineisusuallycookedenoughtoevaporate
much of it. Gentle simmering is said to
produceafinerflavorthanafastboil.The
tannins in red wine can be a problem,
especiallywhenabottleofwineisreduced
down to a few syrupy tablespoons: the
tannins become concentrated and
unbearablyastringent.Thisoutcomecanbe
avoided by cooking the wine down with
protein-rich ingredients, including finely
chopped meat or a gelatinous stock
reduction.Thetanninsbindtotheproteins
in those ingredients instead of to the
proteins in our mouth (just as tea tannins
bind to milk proteins), and so lose their
astringenteffect.
Becausefishflavordeterioratesquickly,
it’simportantthatfishstockorfumetbemade
withveryfreshingredients.Wholefish,
bones,andskinshouldbethoroughlycleaned
andrinsed,andtheblood-rich,veryperishable
gillsdiscarded.Cooksoftenbrieflycookthe
ingredientsinbuttertodeveloptheflavor.A
gelatin-bodiedsaucecanbemadefromthe
