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On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 1140

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pork in water, and then clarifying the
liquidtwicewithbatchesoffinelychopped
chicken meat, which are gently simmered
for 10 minutes and then carefully strained
off.
Manufacturersnowalsoproducemore
conventionalsaucebaseswiththeirgelatin
intact.Theseareoftensoldintheformof
demi-glaceorglacedeviande.
Cookscanimprovetheflavorof
commercialmeatextractsandcannedbroths
bycookingthembrieflywithherbsand/or
dicedaromaticvegetables.Thisfillsoutthe
extract’saroma,whichisgenericallymeatyto
beginwithanddepletedduringthe
concentrationprocess.
FishandShellfishStocks
andSauces

Likemammalsandbirds,fishhavebonesand
skinrichinconnectivetissue.Butthanksto


thecoldenvironmentinwhichfishbodies
function(p.189),theircollagendiffersfrom
mammalandbirdcollagens.Fishcollagenis
lesscross-linked,andsomeltsanddissolves
atmuchlowertemperatures.Thecollagenand
gelatinofwarm-waterfishliketilapiameltat
around77ºF/25ºC,thatofcold-watercod
around50ºF/10ºC.Sowecanextractfish


gelatinatcookingtemperaturesfarbelowthe
boil,andinrelativelyshorttimes.The
collagenofsquidandoctopusismorecrosslinkedthanfishcollagen,sothesemolluscs
requiremoreprolongedheatingat180ºF/80ºC
togiveupmuchoftheirgelatin.Mostcooks
recommendcookingfishstocksforlessthan
anhoursoastoavoidmakingthestock
cloudyandchalkywithcalciumsaltsfromthe
dis-integratingbones.Anotherreasonfor
shortandgentleextractionsisthatfish
gelatinsarerelativelyfragileandmorereadily
breakdownintosmallpieceswhencooked.
Andbecausetheyassociatemorelooselywith



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