On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 395
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small and medium-sized lean fish that
reproducerapidlyandcanbenettedinschools
near the surface. They also provide most of
the world’s canned tuna, with the solitary
light-fleshed albacore (Hawaiian tombo)
giving “white” tuna. (Italian canned tuna is
often made from the darker, stronger bluefin
andfromthedarkportionsofskipjack.)
Mackerels The mackerels are small relatives
of the tunas. The mackerel proper is a native
of the North Atlantic and Mediterranean,
typically18inches/45cmlongand1–2lb/0.5–
1kg.Likethetuna,it’sanenergeticpredator,
withalargecomplementofredfibers,active
enzymes,andanassertiveflavor.Itisusually
netted in large numbers and sold whole, and
deteriorates rapidly unless immediately and
thoroughlyiced.
Swordfish
Thebillfishareafamilyoflarge(to13ft/4m
and2,000lb/900kg),activepredatorsofthe
openoceans,withaspear-likeprojectionfrom
theirupperjawanddense,meaty,nearly
bonelessfleshthathasbeensoughtafterfor
thousandsofyears.Thepreeminentbillfishis
theswordfish,whoseAtlanticstockisthought
tobedowntolessthanatenthofitsoriginal
sizeandinneedofprotection.Swordfishhave
adense,meatytextureandkeepunusually
wellonice,aslongasthreeweeks.
Flatfish:Soles,Turbot,
Halibuts,Flounders
Flatfisharebottom-dwellingfishwhose
bodieshavebeencompressedfromthesides
intoabottom-huggingshape.Mostflatfishare
relativelysedentary,andthereforeareonly
modestlyendowedwiththeenzymesystems
thatgenerateenergyforthefishandflavorfor
us.Theirmildfleshgenerallykeepswellfor
