On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 590
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moisture before they’re desiccated and done,
in 3–4 minutes. The texture is therefore
delicately crisp and fine-grained. Most
packaged chips have this texture because
they’remadeinacontinuousprocessorwhose
oiltemperaturestayshigh.Ontheotherhand,
cooking at an initially low and slowly
increasing temperature, beginning around
250ºF/120ºC and reaching 350ºF/175ºC in 8–
10 minutes, gives the starch granules time to
absorb water, exude dissolved starch into the
potatocellwalls,andreinforceandgluethem
together. The result is a much harder,
crunchier chip. This is the texture created by
“kettle frying,” or cooking the slices by the
batch in a vessel like an ordinary pot. The
temperature of the preheated kettle drops
immediatelywhenabatchofcoldpotatoesis
dumpedin,sothepotatoescookinoilwhose
temperaturestartslowandrisesslowlyasthe
potatoes’ moisture is cooked out and the
heatercatchesup.
SouffléePotatoesSouffléepotatoesareakind
ofhybridFrenchfry-chipinwhichthepotato
slices puff up into delicate brown balloons.
Theyaremadebycuttingpotatoslicesaround
3mm(1/8in)thick,anddeep-fryingthemata
moderate temperature, 350ºF/175ºC, until
theirsurfacesbecomeleatheryandjustbegin
to brown. The slices are cooled, then fried a
second time at a high temperature, around
380ºF/195ºC.Nowwhentheinteriormoisture
is heated to the boil and vaporized, the
stiffened surfaces resist the pressure, and the
vaporpushesthetwosurfacesapart,leavinga
hollowcenter.
SweetPotatoes
Thesweetpotatoisthetruestoragerootof
Ipomoeabatatas,amemberofthemorning
gloryfamily.ItisnativetonorthernSouth
America,andmayhavereachedPolynesiain
prehistorictimes.Columbusbroughtthe
