On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 1139
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Thesedaysmanyrestaurantsandhomecooks
relyoncommercialmeatextractsandbases
formakingtheirsaucesandsoups.The
pioneerofmass-producedmeatextractswas
JustusvonLiebig,inventorofthemistaken
theorythatsearingmeatsealsinthejuices(p.
161),whowasmotivatedbytheequally
mistakenbeliefthatthesolublesubstancesin
meatcontainmostofitsnutritionalvalue.
However,theydocontainmuchofitssavory
flavor.Today,meatextractsaremadeby
simmeringmeatscrapsand/orbonesinwater,
thenclarifyingthestockandevaporatingoff
morethan90%ofthewater.Theinitialstock
ismorethan90%waterand3–4%dissolved
meatcomponents;thefinishedextractisa
viscousmaterialthatisabout20%water,50%
aminoacids,peptides,gelatin,andrelated
molecules,20%minerals,mainlyphosphorus
andpotassium,and5%salt.(Therearealso
lessconcentratedfluidextracts,andsolid
bouilloncubesthathavevariousnaturaland
artificialflavorsadded.)Becausegelatin
wouldmakesuchconcentratedmaterialtoo
thicktoworkwith,manufacturers
intentionallybreakitdownintosmaller
moleculesbyextendingtheinitialcookingby
severalhours,andbypressure-cookingthe
clarifiedstock(ataround275ºF/135ºCfor6–8
minutes;thisstepalsocoagulatesthe
remainingsolubleproteins).Inordertolimit
browningreactionsandkeeptheextractlight
inbothcolorandroastedflavor,muchofthe
waterevaporationisdoneattemperatures
below170ºF/75ºC.
ChineseMeatStock:ClarifyingWithout
Eggs
The proteins in egg whites are especially
effective at removing tiny protein and
otherparticlesfrommeatstocks,butmeat
proteins themselves can also do the job.
Chinese cooks make clear meat broths by
cookingthemeatandbonesofchickenand
