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On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 589

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potato depends on the surface area. Chips,
which are almost all surface, average about
35% oil, while thick fries are more like 10–
15%.
French Fries “French fries” may first have
been made in significant quantities by
Parisian street vendors early in the 19th
century. They are potato sticks cut with a
square cross section, 5–10 mm on a side,
deep-fried in oil, with a crisp gold exterior
and a moist interior that’s fluffy if the
potatoes are high-starch russets, creamy
otherwise. Simple quick frying doesn’t work
verywell;itgivesathin,delicatecrustthat’s
quicklysoftenedbytheinterior’smoisture.A
crispcrustrequiresaninitialperiodofgentle
frying, so that starch in the surface cells has
time to dissolve from the granules and
reinforce and glue together the outer cell
walls into a thicker, more robust layer. Good
friescanbemadebystartingthepotatostrips


in relatively cool oil, 250–325ºF/120–163ºC,
cookingfor8–10minutes,thenraisingtheoil
temperature to 350–375ºF/175–190ºC and
cooking for 3–4 minutes to brown and crisp
the outside. The most efficient production
methodistopre-fryallthepotatostripsatthe
lower temperature ahead of time, set them
aside at room temperature, and then do the


brief high-temperature frying at the last
minute.
Potato Chips Potato chips are essentially
french fries that are all crust and no interior.
The potatoes are cut into thin cross sections
around 1.5 mm thick, the equivalent of just
10–12 potato cells, then deep-fried until dry
andcrisp.Therearetwobasicwaysoffrying
chips,andtheyproducetwodifferenttextures.
Cooking at a fairly constant and high oil
temperature, around 350ºF/175ºC, heats the
slices so rapidly that the starch granules and
cell walls have little chance to absorb any



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