On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 1138
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ConsomméandClarificationwithEgg
WhitesOneofthemostremarkablesoupsis
consommé,anintenselyflavored,ambercolored,clearliquidwithadistinctbut
delicatebody.(Thenamecomesfromthe
Frenchfor“toconsume,”“touseup,”and
referredtothemedievalpracticeofcooking
themeatbrothdownuntilitreachedtheright
consistency.)Itismadebypreparingabasic
stockmainlyfrommeat,notflavor-poor
bonesorskin,andthenclarifyingitwhile
simultaneouslyextractingasecondbatchof
meatandvegetables.It’sakindofdouble
stockmadeexpresslyforsoup;asmuchasa
pound/0.5kgofmeatmaygointoproducing
oneserving.
Theclarificationofconsomméis
accomplishedbystirringfinelychoppedmeat
andvegetablesintothecoldstockalongwith
severallightlywhiskedeggwhites.The
mixtureisthenbroughtslowlytothesimmer,
andkeptthereforaroundanhour.Asthe
stockheatsup,theabundanteggwhite
proteinsbegintocoagulateintoafine
cheesecloth-likenetwork,andessentially
straintheliquidfromwithin.Solubleproteins
fromthefreshbatchofmeathelpproduce
largeproteinparticlesthatareeasilytrapped
bytheegg-whitenetwork.Graduallythe
proteinmeshrisestothetopofthepotto
forma“raft,”whichcontinuestocollect
particlesbroughttothesurfacebyconvection
intheliquid.Whenthecookingisdone,the
raftisskimmedoffandanyremaining
particlesareremovedbyafinalstraining.The
resultingliquidisveryclear.Clarification
witheggwhitesdoesremovebothflavor
moleculesandsomegelatinfromthestock,
whichiswhythecooksuppliesfreshmeatand
vegetablesduringtheclarification.
CommercialMeatExtracts
andSauceBases
