On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 588
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all of them involve cooking the potatoes
wholeorinpieces,crushingthemtoamoreor
less fine particle size, and lubricating and
enriching the particles with a combination of
water and fat, usually in the form of butter
and milk or cream. Some luxurious versions
may be almost as much butter as potato, or
include eggs or egg yolks. Mealy types fall
apart into individual cells and small
aggregates, so they offer a large surface area
for coating by the added ingredients, and
readily produce a fine, creamy consistency.
Waxy potatoes require more mashing to
obtain a smooth texture, exude more gelated
starch,anddon’tabsorbenrichmentaseasily.
The classic Frenchpommes purées, pureed
potatoes,aremadefromwaxypotatoes,pieces
of which are pushed through a fine sieve or
foodmillandthenworkedhard—tothepoint
of having what an eminent French cookbook
writer,MmeSte-Ange,calleda“deadarm”—
firstaloneandthenwithbutter,toincorporate
airandobtainthelightnessofwhippedcream.
American recipes take a more gentle
approach, sieving mealy varieties and
carefully stirring in liquid and fat to avoid
excessive cell damage, starch release, and
glueyness.
FriedPotatoesFriedpotatoesaresomeofthe
world’s favorite foods. Deep-fried potato
sticksandslicesandthetechniqueofdoublefrying were all well known in Europe by the
middle of the 19th century, and in England
were attributed mainly to the French: hence
the term “French fry” for what the French
simply call fried potatoes (pommes frites).
These products happily turned out to be
among the few foods whose quality need not
be compromised by mass production. Of
course they’re rich: the frying oil in which
they’re immersed coats their surface and is
drawn into the tiny pores created when the
surfac dries out. The proportion of oil to
