On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 1137
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glace or “half-glace,” which is stock
simmered down to 25–40% of its original
volume, often with some tomato puree or
paste to add flavor and color, and with some
flourorstarchtosupplementitslowergelatin
content (10–15%). The tomato particles and
flour gluten proteins cloud the stock and are
removedbyskimmingthestockasitreduces,
and then by a final straining. The starch in
demi-glace, around 3–5% of its final weight,
is largely an economy measure — it gives a
greaterthicknesswithlessstockreductionand
loss of volume to evaporation — but it also
has the advantage of sparing some of the
stock’s flavor from being boiled off, and
avoiding the sticky consistency of very
concentratedgelatin.
Demi-glaceisthebaseformanyclassic
Frenchbrownsauces,whicharegiven
particularflavorsandnuanceswiththe
additionofvariousotheringredients(meats,
vegetables,herbs,wine)andfinalenriching
thickeners(butter,cream).Becausethey’re
versatilebuttedioustoprepare,demi-glace
andglacearemanufacturedandwidely
availableinfrozenform.
ConcentratingStockandFlavorto
FinishaDish
An alternative to cooking stock down in
bulk is to reduce it in small quantities to
augmentthepanjuicesofaroastorsauté.
Once the meat is cooked and its juices
concentrated and browned on the pan
bottom, the cook can repeatedly add a
smallquantityofstocktothepanandcook
itdownuntilitssolidsbegintobrown,then
dissolve the successive brownings in a
final dose of stock to make the liquid
sauce. The high pan temperature helps
break down the gelatin molecules into
shorter lengths, so the resulting sauce is
less sticky and congeals more slowly than
itwouldifthegelatinwereintact.
