On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 587
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waxy types (true new potatoes and common
U.S. red-and white-skinned varieties),
neighboring cells cohere even when cooked,
which gives them a solid, dense, moist
texture, and holds them together in intact
pieces for gratins, potato cakes, and salads.
Both types can be made firmer and more
coherent, less prone to the “sloughing” of
outer layers when boiled, by treating them to
the low-temperature precooking that
strengthenscellwalls(p.283).
Cookedpotatoessometimesdevelopa
largeinternalregionofbluish-gray
discoloration.This“after-cookingdarkening”
iscausedbythecombinationofironions,a
phenolicsubstance(chlorogenicacid),and
oxygen,whichreacttoformapigmented
complex.Thisproblemcanbeminimizedin
boiledpotatoesbymakingthepHofthewater
distinctlyacidicwithcreamoftartarorlemon
juiceafterthepotatoesarehalf-cooked.
Theflavorofboiledpotatoesisdominated
bytheintensifiedearthyandfatty,fruity,and
flowerynotesoftherawtuber.Bakedpotatoes
developanotherlayerofflavorfromthe
browningreactions(p.777),includingmalty
and“sweet”aromas(methylbutanal,
methional).Leftoverpotatoesoftensuffer
fromastale,cardboard-likeflavorthat
developsoverseveraldaysintherefrigerator,
butwithinafewhoursifthepotatoesarekept
hotforprolongedservice.Itturnsoutthatthe
aromaticfragmentsofmembranelipidsare
temporarilystabilizedbythetuber’s
antioxidantvitaminC;butwithtimethe
vitaminCisusedupandthefragments
becomeoxidizedtoaseriesoflesspleasant
aldehydes.
Potatoesarepreparedinmanyways,and
usedasaningredientinmanydishes.Hereare
briefnotesonafewstarringroles.
Mashed and Pureed Potatoes There are
manydifferentstylesofmashedpotatoes,but
