On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 1136
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continuedatagentlesimmeruntilmostofthe
flavorandgelatinhavebeenextractedfrom
thesolids.Theliquidisstrainedthrough
cheeseclothorametalstrainerwithout
pressingonthesolids,whichwouldextract
cloudyparticles.It’sthenthoroughlychilled,
andthesolidifiedfatremovedfromthe
surface.(Ifthecookdoesn’thavethetimeto
chillthestock,hecansoakawaymuchofthe
fatfromthesurfacewithclothorpapertowels
orspeciallydesignedplasticblotters.)The
stockisnowreadytouseasaningredient,to
makebraisedandstewedmeatsandmeat
soups,orasasavorycookingliquidfor
vegetables;oritmaybereducedforuseina
sauce.Thecookmayalsousestocktoextract
anewbatchofmeatandbonesandproduce
theespeciallyflavorful,highlyprized—and
expensive—doublestock.(Doublestockcan
inturnbecombinedwithmorefreshmeatand
bonestomakeatriplestock.)
Becauseastandardkitchenextractionof
eighthoursreleasesonlyabout20%ofthe
gelatininbeefbones,thebonesmaybe
extractedforasecondtime,foratotalofupto
24hours.Theresultingliquidcanthenbe
usedtostartthenextfreshextractionofmeat
andbones.
Concentrating Meat Stocks:Glace and
Demi-glace Slowly simmered until it’s
reduced to a tenth its original volume, stock
becomesglacedeviande,literally“meatice”
or “meat glass,” which cools to a stiff, clear
jelly. Glace has a thick, syrupy, sticky
consistencythankstoitshighgelatincontent,
about25%,anintenselysavorytastethanksto
the concentrated amino acids, and a rounded,
mellow, but somewhat flat aroma thanks to
the long hours during which volatile
molecules have been boiled off or reacted
with each other. Meat glace is used in small
quantities to lend flavor and body to sauces.
Intermediatebetweenstockandglaceisdemi-
