On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 140
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primal,theunstructuredstuffoflife.Thisis
whytheyareprotean,whythecookcanuse
themtogeneratesuchavarietyofstructures,
fromalight,insubstantialmeringuetoa
dense,lingeringlyrichcustard.Eggsreconcile
oilandwaterinahostofsmoothsauces;they
refinethetextureofcandiesandicecreams;
theygiveflavor,substance,andnutritiousness
tosoups,drinks,breads,pastas,andcakes;
theyputashineonpastries;theyclarifymeat
stocksandwines.Ontheirown,they’re
amenabletobeingboiled,fried,deep-fried,
baked,roasted,pickled,andfermented.
Meanwhilemodernsciencehasonly
deepenedtheegg’saptnessasanemblemof
creation.Theyolkisastockpileoffuel
obtainedbythehenfromseedsandleaves,
whichareinturnstockpilesofthesun’s
radiantenergy.Theyellowpigmentsthatgave
theyolkitsnamealsocomedirectlyfrom
plants,wheretheyprotectthechemical
machineryofphotosynthesisfrombeing
overwhelmedbythesun.Sotheeggdoes
embodythechainofcreation,fromthe
developingchickbackthroughthehentothe
plantsthatfedher,andthentotheultimate
sourceoflife’sfire,theyellowsphereofthe
sky.Aneggisthesun’slightrefractedinto
life.
Manyanimalslayeggs,andhumans
exploitanumberofthem,frompigeonsand
turkeystowildbirds,penguins,turtles,and
crocodiles.Thechickeneggisbyfarthemost
commonlyeateninmostcountries,soI’ll
concentrateonit,withoccasionalasideson
duckeggs.
TheChickenandtheEgg
Overthecenturiestherehavebeenseveral
cleveranswerstotheconundrum,Which
camefirst:thechickenortheegg?The
ChurchFatherssidedwiththechicken,
pointingoutthataccordingtoGenesis,God
