On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 187
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setting temperature. Doing the reverse —
adding cold eggs to the hot milk — would
immediately heat the first dribbles of egg
close to the boil and cause premature
coagulationandcurdling.
Thoughscaldingwasaformofinsurance
intimeswhenmilkqualitywasuncertain,it
cannowbedispensedwithincustardmaking
—unlessyouneedtoflavorthemilkby
infusingitwithvanillaorcoffeebeans,citrus
peel,oranothersolidflavoring.Acustard
mixedcoldhasjustasevenatextureandsets
almostasquicklyasapre-scaldedone.Prescaldingthemilkremainshandyinmaking
creamsbecausemilk(orcream)canbeboiled
quicklywithlittleattentionfromthecook,
whileheatingthemilk-eggmixfromroom
temperaturerequiresalowflameandconstant
stirringtopreventcoagulationatthepan
bottom.
GreenEggsintheChafingDish
Scrambled eggs and omelets kept hot in a
chafing dish or on a steam table will
sometimes develop green patches. This
discoloration results from the same
reactionthatturnshard-cookedyolksgreen
(p.89),andisencouragedbythepersistent
high temperature and the increased
alkalinity of the cooked eggs (the rise is
about half a pH unit). It can be prevented
byincludinganacidicingredientintheegg
mixture, around a half teaspoon/2 gm
lemon juice or vinegar per egg; half that
amount will slow the discoloration and
affecttheflavorless.
CurdlingInsurance:StarchinCustards
andCreamsFlourorcornstarchcanprotect
againstcurdlingincustardsandcreams,even
ifthey’recookedquicklyoverdirectheatand
actuallyboil.(Thesameistrueforegg-based
sauceslikehollandaise;seep.628.)Thekey
isthegelationofthesolidstarchgranulesin
thesematerials.Whenheatedto175ºF/77ºC
