On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 1135
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The Importance of a Cold Start and
Uncovered,SlowHeatingAftertheblanching
orbrowning,themeatsolidsarestartedinan
uncovered pot of cold water, which the cook
brings slowly to a gentle simmer and keeps
there, regularly skimming off the fat and
scumthataccumulateatthesurface.Thecold
start and slow heating allow the soluble
proteins to escape the solids and coagulate
slowly, forming large aggregates that either
risetothesurfaceandareeasilyskimmedoff,
orsettleontothesidesandbottom.Ahotstart
produces many separate and tiny protein
particlesthatremainsuspendedandcloudthe
stock; and a boil churns particles and fat
droplets into a cloudy suspension and
emulsion. The pot is left uncovered for
several reasons. Because this allows water to
evaporateandcoolthesurface,itmakesitless
likely that the stock will boil. It also
dehydrates the surface scum, which becomes
more insoluble and easier to skim. And it
starts the process of concentration that will
givethestockamoreintenseflavor.
FoodWords:Stock,Broth
The wordstock as it’s applied in the
kitchen reflects the professional cook’s
approachtosaucemaking.Itderivesfrom
an old Germanic root meaning “tree
trunk,” and has more than 60 related
meanings revolving around the idea of
basic materials, sources, and supplies. It’s
thus the culinary application of a very
generalterm,andwasfirstusedinthe18th
century.Muchmorespecificandancientis
broth, which goes back to 1000CE and a
Germanic rootbrumeaning“toprepareby
boiling”andthematerialsoprepared,both
itandtheboilingliquid.Bouillonandbrew
arerelatedterms.
SingleandDoubleStocksAfterthescumhas
mostlystoppedforming,thevegetables,
herbs,andwineareaddedandthecookingis
