On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 390
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salmonaromamaybedueinparttothestores
ofpinkastaxanthinpigment,whichthefish
accumulatefromoceancrustaceans(p.194),
andwhichwhenheatedgivesrisetovolatile
moleculesfoundinandreminiscentoffruits
andflowers.
Trouts and Chars These mainly freshwater
offshoots of the salmons are excellent sport
fishandsohavebeentransplantedfromtheir
homewaterstolakesandstreamsalloverthe
world.Theirfleshlacksthesalmoncoloration
because their diet doesn’t include the
pigmentedoceancrustaceans.Today,thetrout
found in U.S. markets and restaurants are
almostallfarmedrainbows.Onadietoffish
and animal meal and vitamins, rainbow trout
take just a year from egg to mild, singleportion (0.5–1 lb/225–450 gm) fish. The
Norwegians and Japanese raise exactly the
samespeciesinsaltwatertoproduceafarmed
versionofthesteelheadtrout,whichcanreach
50 lb/23 kg, and has the pink-red flesh and
flavorofasmallAtlanticsalmon.Arcticchar,
which can grow to 30 lb/14 kg as migratory
fish, are farmed in Iceland, Canada, and
elsewhere to about 4 lb/2 kg, and can be as
fattyassalmon.
TheCodFamily
Alongwiththeherringandtunafamilies,the
codfamilyhasbeenoneofthemostimportant
fisheriesinhistory.Cod,haddock,hake,
whiting,pollack,andpollockaremediumsizedpredatorsthatstayclosetotheocean
bottomalongthecontinentalshelves,where
theyswimrelativelylittle—andthushave
relativelyinactiveenzymesystemsandstable
flavorandtexture.CodsettheEuropean
standardforwhitefish,withitsmildflavor
andbright,firm,large-flakedflesh,nearly
freeofbothredmuscleandfat.
