On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 1134
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especiallylargeamounts.Typically,themeat
andbonesarecookedinbetweenoneandtwo
timestheirweightinwater(1–2quartsor
litersper2lb/1kgsolids),andyieldabout
halftheirweightinstock,thankstogradual
evaporationduringcooking.Thesmallerthe
piecesintowhichthey’recut,themore
quicklytheircontentscanbeextractedinthe
water.
Inordertoroundouttheflavorofastock,
cooksusuallycookthemeatandbonesalong
witharomaticvegetables—celery,carrots,
onions—apacketofherbs,andsometimes
wine.Carrotsandonionscontributesweetness
aswellasaroma,winetartnessand
savoriness.Saltisneveraddedatthisstage,
becausethemeatsandvegetablesrelease
some,anditbecomesconcentratedasthe
stockreduces.
Cooking the Stock A classic meat stock
shouldbeasclearaspossible,sothatitcanbe
madeintosoupbrothsandaspicsthatwillbe
attractive to the eye. Many of the details of
stock making have to do with removing
impurities,especiallythesolublecellproteins
thatcoagulateintounsightlygrayparticles.
Thebonesandoftenmeataswell(and
skin,ifany)arefirstwashedthoroughly.To
makealightstock,theyarethenputinapot
ofcoldwaterthatisbroughttotheboil;
they’rethenremovedfromthepotandrinsed.
Thisblanchingstepremovessurface
impuritiesandcoagulatessurfaceproteinson
thebonesandmeatsothattheywon’tcloud
thecookingliquid.Tomakeadarkstockfor
brownsauces,thebonesandmeatarefirst
roastedinahotoventoproducecoloranda
moreintenseroasted-meatflavorwiththe
Maillardreactionsbetweenproteinsand
carbohydrates.Thisprocessalsocoagulates
thesurfaceproteinsandmakesblanching
unnecessary.
