The food lab better home cooking through science ( PDFDrive ) 164
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get a light, tall, fluffy interior. Let the batter sit for half an
hour, and you get a dense, gummy interior with few
bubbles. But wait a minute, there are stillsome bubbles in
there,right?Wheredidthosecomefrom?
Well,prettymuchallbakingpowderiswhatisreferredto
as “double-acting.” Just as the name indicates, it produces
gas in two distinct phases.The first occurs as soon as you
mixitwithwater;thesecondoccursonlywhenitisheated
(see “Experiment: Double-Acting Baking Powder,”here).
This second rise in the skillet makes for extra-light and
fluffypancakes.
Double-actingbakingpowdergivesyouasecondrisewhen
cooked.
TheWhitesAreLight
So what if baking soda just isn’t doing enough for you?
How do you get your pancakes to stand even taller and
lighter?Iliketouseameringue—eggwhitesthathavebeen
whipped vigorously until they form a semisolid foam.
Here’showitworks:
• Foam: In the early phases of beating, the proteins in the
eggwhites—mostlyglobulinandovotransferrin—beginto
unfold.LikenerdsataStarWarsconvention,theytendto
gathertogetherandbondinsmallgroups.Thewhitesstart
toincorporateafewbubblesandresembleseafoam.
• Soft peaks: As the whites are beaten, the groups of
bonded egg proteins become more and more
interconnected, eventually creating a continuous network
of proteins that reinforce the walls of the bubbles you’re
creating.Thewhitesbegintoformsoftpeaks.
• Stiff peaks: As you continue to beat, the reinforced
