On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 1133
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flavoredand/orthickenedatthelastminute
withpurees,emulsions,orastarch-based
mixture.Inthemoreversatilesystem
developedbyFrenchcooks,onebeginsby
makingawaterextractofmeatandbones
aheadoftime,andthenusesthatstocktocook
thefinaldish,orconcentratesittomake
intenselyflavored,full-bodiedsauces.These
stocksandconcentratesusedtobetheheartof
restaurantcooking.They’relessimportant
now,butstillrepresentthestateoftheartin
meatsauces.
Collagen and gelatin. Collagen molecules
( l e f t )contribute mechanical strength to
connectivetissueandboneinanimalmuscles.
They are made up of three individual protein
chains wound closely together into a helix to
makearope-likefiber.Whenheatedinwater,
the individual protein chains come apart
(ri ght )and dissolve into the water. The
unwound, separate chains are what we call
gelatin.
TheChoiceofIngredientsTheaimin
makingmeatstockistoproduceafullflavoredliquidwithenoughgelatinthatitwill
alsobecomefull-bodiedwhenreduced.Meat
isanexpensiveingredient,anexcellentsource
offlavor,andamodestsourceofgelatin.
Bonesandskinsarelessexpensive,poor
sourcesofflavor,butexcellentsourcesof
gelatin.Sothemostflavorfulandexpensive
stocksaremadewithmeat,thefullestbodied
andcheapestwithbonesandporkskin,and
everydaystockswithsomeofeach.Beefand
chickenstockstastedistinctlyoftheir
respectivemeats,whilevealbonesandmeat
arevaluedfortheirmoreneutralcharacter,as
wellastheirhigheryieldofsolublegelatin.
Cartilaginousvealknucklesandfeetgive
