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On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 388

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muddyflavor(p.193),particularlyintheheat
oflatesummerandfall.
Salmons,Trouts,andRelatives

Thesalmonsandtroutsareamongthemost
familiarofourfoodfishes—andamongthe
mostremarkable.Thefamilyisoneofthe
oldestamongthefishes,goingbackmorethan
100millionyears.Thesalmonsarecarnivores
thatareborninfreshwater,gototheseato
mature,andreturntotheirhomestreamsto
spawn.Thefreshwatertroutsevolvedfrom
severallandlockedgroupsofAtlanticand
Pacificsalmon.
Salmons Salmon develop their muscle mass
and fat stores in order to fuel their egg
production and nonstop upstream migration,
processes that consume nearly half of their
weight and leave their flesh mushy and pale.
Salmon quality is thus at its peak as the fish


approachthemouthoftheirhomeriver,which
is where commercial fishermen take them.
The stocks of Atlantic salmon have been
depleted by centuries of overfishing and
damage to their home rivers, so nowadays
most market fish come from farms in
Scandinavia and North and South America.
The wild Alaska fishery is still healthy.
Opinionsvaryontherelativequalitiesofwild


and farmed salmon. Some professional cooks
prefer the fattiness and more consistent
quality of farm fish, while others prefer the
strongerflavorandfirmertextureofwildfish
attheirbest.
SalmonsandTheirCharacteristics
FatContent,%
Atlantic
Atlantic:Salmosalar 14
Pacific



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