On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 1132
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waterandtheproteinfibersthatdothework
ofcontraction,whicharenotdispersablein
water.Thesolubleanddispersablematerials
inmuscleincludeabout1%byweightof
collagen,5%othercellproteins,2%amino
acidsandothersavorymolecules,1%sugars
andothercarbohydrates,and1%minerals,
mainlyphosphorusandpotassium.Bonesare
around20%collagen,pigskinaround30%,
andcartilaginousvealknucklesupto40%.
Bonesandskinarethusmuchbettersources
ofgelatinandthickeningpowerthanmeat.
However,theycarryonlyasmallfractionof
theothersolublemoleculesthatprovide
flavor.Tomakesauceswithgoodmeatflavor,
it’smeatthatmustbeextracted,notbonesor
skin.
Whenmeatisthoroughlycooked,it
releasesabout40%ofitsweightinjuice,and
theflowofjuiceprettymuchendswhenthe
tissuereaches160ºF/70ºC.Mostofthejuiceis
water,andtherestthesolublemolecules
carriedinthewater.Ifmeatiscookedin
water,thengelatincanbefreedfromthe
connectivetissueandextractedoveralong
periodoftime.Whencooksmakestocks,
extractiontimesrangefromlessthananhour
forfish,toafewhoursforchickenorveal
stocks,toadayforbeef.Optimumextraction
timesdependonthesizeofthebonesand
meatpieces,andontheageoftheanimal;the
morecross-linkedcollagenofasteertakes
longertofreethanthecollagenfromaveal
calf.Atlongextractiontimes,thegelatin
moleculesthathavealreadybeendissolved
aregraduallybrokendownintosmallerpieces
thatarelessefficientthickeners.
MeatStocksandSauces
Thereareseveralgeneralstrategiesfor
makingmeatandfishsauces.Thesimplestof
themcenteronthejuicesproducedwhenthe
meatforthefinaldishiscooked,whichcanbe
