The food lab better home cooking through science ( PDFDrive ) 161
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BUTTERMILK
PANCAKES
Theymaybegoldenbrown,crispontheedges,andlight
andfluffyinthecenter,butwhenyougetrightdowntoit,
classicAmericanpancakesarenotallthatdifferentfrom
anyleavenedbread.
Apartfromitsstarchcontent,breadisbasicallyjustaballof
protein filled with gas (very much like my dog, in that
respect)†. When flour is mixed with liquid, two proteins
naturally present in wheat,glutenin andgliadin, link
togethertoformtheresilient,stretchyproteinmatrixknown
asgluten.Inleavenedbreads,airbubblesareformedinthis
matrix and expand, creating the familiar hole structure
insidealoafofbread(oragoodpizzacrust,forthatmatter).
With traditional or “slow” breads, that leaveningagent is
a living fungus called yeast.As the yeast consumes sugars
presentintheflour,itreleasescarbondioxidegas,forming
thousands of teeny-tiny air pockets inside the dough and
causing it to rise. Once you pop that dough into the oven,
those air pockets heat up and further expand, and a
phenomenon known asovenspring takes place. Finally, as
the gluten and starches get hot enough, they set into a
semisolid form, giving structure to the bread and turning it
fromwetandstretchytodryandspongy.
Theonlyproblemwithyeast?Ittakesalong,longtimeto
work.Enterbakingsoda.Unrestrictedbytheprotractedtime
framesofbiologicalorganisms,itreliesinsteadonthequick
chemicalreactionbetweenanacidandabase.Bakingsoda
ispuresodiumbicarbonate—analkaline(akabasic)powder.
When dissolved in liquid and combined with an acid, it
rapidly reacts, breaking down into sodium, water, and
carbon dioxide. Just as with yeasted breads, this carbon
dioxide expands upon baking, leavening the gluten protein
matrix.Thistypeofchemicallyleavenedbreadisreferredto
asaquickbread,abroadcategorythatincludeseverything
from scones and biscuits to banana or zucchini bread and
evenpancakes.
Of course, for baking soda to work, a recipe needs to
