On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 1129
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hasitsuses.
Manysaucescanbethickenednotjustby
addingthickeners,butbyremovingsomeof
thecontinuousphase—boilingoffwater—
sothatthethickenersalreadypresentinthe
saucebecomemoreconcentrated.This
techniquedoesn’tdiminishflavor,because
whateverflavorthesauce’sparticlesand
moleculescanbindhavealreadybeenbound.
Andinfactitcanintensifyflavor,becausethe
concentrationofflavormoleculesmay
increasejustasthethickeners’concentration
does.
The Importance of Salt Recent research has
uncovered intriguing indications that
thickeners reduce our perception of aroma in
part because they reduce our perception of
saltiness. Various long-chain carbohydrates,
including starch, first reduce the apparent
saltiness of the sauce, either by binding
sodium ions to themselves or by adding
another sensation (viscosity) for the brain to
attendto.Thenthisreducedsaltinessreduces
the apparent aroma intensity — despite the
factthatthesamenumberofaromamolecules
are flowing out of the sauce and across the
smell receptors in our nose. The practical
significance of this finding is that thickening
a sauce with flour or starch diminishes its
overall flavor, and that both tasteand aroma
can be restored to some extent by the simple
additionofmoresalt.
SaucesThickened
withGelatinand
OtherProteins
Ifwegentlyheatapieceofmeatorfishalone
inapan,itreleasesflavorfuljuices.Normally
wemakethepanhotenoughtoevaporatethe
waterthemomentitcomesout,sothatthe
flavormoleculesbecomeconcentratedonthe
meatandpansurfaces,andreactwitheach
