The food lab better home cooking through science ( PDFDrive ) 209
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reduced stock—glace, glace de viande, anddemiglace—according to how far the stock has been
reduced.
Broth is made with meat and vegetables—no
bones or connective tissue. It can be flavorful, but
withoutcollagenfromconnectivetissue,it’saboutas
thin as water. Yet while a classically trained chef
may need to know this distinction, as a home cook,
youdon’thavetoworryaboutit.Inthisbook,Iuse
the word “stock” pretty much exclusively, because
my Quick Chicken Stock recipe contains both bones
and added gelatin. For the vast majority of homecookedrecipes,thetwocanbeusedinterchangeably.
TheUSDAmakesnodistinctionintheirlabelinglaws
about what can be called “stock” or “broth.”They
statethattheterms“maybeusedinterchangeablyas
the resulting liquid from simmering meat and/or
bonesinwaterwithseasonings.”Whilesomebrands
will choose to use one wording or another on their
packaging,thereisinfactnorealdifferenceinhow
they’remanufactured.
Jusreferstothenaturaljuicesgivenoffbyapiece
ofmeatthat’sbeingroasted.Oftenthejuswillsettle
onthebottomofaroastingpanandevaporatewhile
the meat cooks, leaving a coating of what is called
fond—the delicious browned bits that form the base
ofpansaucesandgravies.
FREEZINGSTOCK
T
here’snodenyingit—evenaquickstockisabit
ofachore,andonethatIdon’twanttogothrough
every time I make a bowl of soup or need a quick
pan sauce. Fortunately, stock freezes remarkably
well.Ikeepmystockfrozenintwodifferentways:
•Inicecubetrays.Pourthestockintoanicecube
tray, let it freeze completely, and then transfer
the cubes to a zipper-lock freezer bag.You can
pulloutasmuchoraslittleasyouneed,andthe
cubes melt nice and fast. This is ideal for pan
sauceswhereyoudon’tneedtoomuchstockata
time.
• In quart-sized Cryovac or freezer bags or
plasticcontainers. If you have a vacuum-sealer
(such as a FoodSaver), a quart-sized bag is the
ideal way to store stock. It freezes flat, so it
takes up very little space in the freezer, and,
betteryet,defrostsunderhottapwaterinjusta
matter of minutes. If you don’t have a vacuumsealer, you can freeze stock in zipper-lock
freezerbags.Makesuretosqueezeoutasmuch
air as possible before sealing them, then lay
them flat to freeze. Or, just use regular plastic
delicontainers.
The other trick to efficient and inexpensive stock
production is to save all your chicken parts. Every
time I break down a chicken, I toss the backs and
