The food lab better home cooking through science ( PDFDrive ) 208
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floating on the surface add richness and depth. A
heavy slick adds nothing but a greasy flavor and
mouth-coating oiliness. So, it’s best to remove the
slick of fat that forms on top of your stock as it
cooks.Butwhat’sthebestway?
Ifyou’veworkedinarestaurant,you’veprobably
beentaughttobehyperawareofwhatyourstockis
doing at all times, carefully skimming any scum or
fat that rises to the surface at regular intervals to
keepthebrothasclearaspossible.But,again,that’s
arestauranttechnique,forrestaurantcuisine.When
I make stock at home, I don’t bother skimming it
until it’s finished. I strain the stock through a finemesh strainer into a fresh pot and let it rest for
about 15 minutes, long enough to allow most of the
fat and scum to rise to the surface so it can easily
ladledoff.
Even easier is to plan ahead and refrigerate the
stockovernight;thefatwillcrystallizeintoaneasyto-remove layer that can be scraped off with a
spoon, exposing the perfectly jelled stock
underneath.
STOCK,BROTH,GLACE,AND
JUS
S
trictlyspeaking,stockandbrotharetwodistinct
preparations.Stock is made by simmering bones,
connective tissue, meat scraps, and vegetables in
water.Theconnectivetissuegivesitbodyandarich,
unctuous mouthfeel. Reducing a stock by gently
heating it to evaporate its water content
concentrates both its flavorful compounds and its
gelatin. Reduce it far enough, and it’ll become
viscous enough to form acoherent coating on food.
At this stage, it’s known as aglace, and it’s
exceedingly delicious. Just as Eskimos have many
wordsforsnow,theFrenchhavedifferentwordsfor
