On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 331
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foiegraswillgive,retaintheimprint,andfeel
somewhat supple and unctuous, while an
under-fattenedliverwillfeelelastic,hard,and
wet. An overfattened, weakened liver feels
softandfranklyoily.
Foiegrasisatitsbestfreshoutofthebird.
Apartfromitsuseinpâtés,itisgenerally
preparedintwoways.Oneistosliceitfairly
thick,brieflysauteinahot,drypanuntilthe
surfaceisbrownedandtheinteriorjust
warmedthrough,andserveitimmediately.
Thesensationofwarm,firm,flavorfulflesh
meltingawaybetweentongueandpalateis
unparalleled.Liverqualityisespecially
importantinthispreparation,sincehighpan
heatwillreleaseafloodoffatfroman
overfattenedorotherwiseweakenedorgan,
andthetextureisunpleasantlyflabby.
Asecondpreparationistocooktheliver
whole,chillit,andsliceandserveitcool.
Thisismoreforgivingofsecond-quality
livers,andoffersitsownkindoflusciousness.
Tomakeaterrine,theliversarepressed
gentlyintoacontainerandcookedinawater
bath;toprepareatorchonoffoiegras,they’re
wrappedinaclothandpoachedinstockorin
duckorgoosefat.Fatlossisminimizedby
gentle,gradualheatingjusttothedesired
doneness(from110to160ºF/45–70ºC,lower
temperaturesgivingacreamiertexture),the
liquidkeptonlyafewdegreesabovethe
targettemperature.Coolingpartlysolidifies
thefat,whichallowstheterrineortorchonto
beslicedcleanly,andthencontributesa
meltingfirmnesstothedish’stextureasit’s
eaten.
Skin,Cartilage,andBones
Usuallycooksdon’twelcomelargeamounts
oftougheningconnectivetissueinmeat.But
takenontheirown,animalskin,cartilage,and
bonesarevaluableexactlybecausethey’re
mostlyconnectivetissueandthereforefullof
