On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 381
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PaleTranslucenceMostofthemusclein
mostrawfishiswhiteoroff-whiteand
delicatelytranslucentcomparedtorawbeefor
pork,whosecellsaresurroundedbymore
light-scatteringconnectivetissueandfatcells.
Especiallyfattyportionsoffish,suchas
salmonandtunabellies,lookdistinctlymilky
comparedtofleshfromjustafewinches
away.Thetranslucenceoffishmuscleis
turnedintoopacitybycookingtreatmentsthat
causethemuscleproteinstounfoldandbond
toeachotherintolarge,light-scattering
masses.Bothheatandmarinationinacid
unfoldproteinsandturnfishfleshopaque.
Red Tunas The meaty color of certain tunas
is caused by the oxygen-storing pigment
myoglobin(p.132),whichthesefishneedfor
theirnonstop,high-velocitylife(p.201).Fish
myoglobin is especially prone to being
oxidized to brownish metmyoglobin,
especially at freezer temperatures down to –
22ºF/–30ºC; tuna must be frozen well below
this to keep its color. During cooking, fish
myoglobins denature and turn gray-brown at
around the same temperature as beef
myoglobin, between 140 and 160ºF/60 and
70ºC.Becausetheyareoftenpresentinsmall
quantities, their color change can be masked
by the general milkiness caused when all the
other cell proteins unfold and bond to each
other. This is why fish with distinctly pink
rawflesh(albacoretuna,mahimahi)willturn
aswhiteasanywhitefishwhencooked.
Orange-Pink Salmons and Trouts The
characteristiccolorofthesalmonsisduetoa
chemicalrelativeofthecarotenepigmentthat
colors carrots. This compound, astaxanthin,
comes from the salmons’ small crustacean
prey, which create it from the beta-carotene
they obtain from algae. Many fish store
astaxanthinintheirskinandovaries,butonly
thesalmonfamilystoresitinmuscle.Because
