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PaleTranslucenceMostofthemusclein
mostrawfishiswhiteoroff-whiteand
delicatelytranslucentcomparedtorawbeefor
pork,whosecellsaresurroundedbymore
light-scatteringconnectivetissueandfatcells.
Especiallyfattyportionsoffish,suchas
salmonandtunabellies,lookdistinctlymilky
comparedtofleshfromjustafewinches
away.Thetranslucenceoffishmuscleis
turnedintoopacitybycookingtreatmentsthat
causethemuscleproteinstounfoldandbond
toeachotherintolarge,light-scattering
masses.Bothheatandmarinationinacid
unfoldproteinsandturnfishfleshopaque.
Red Tunas The meaty color of certain tunas
is caused by the oxygen-storing pigment
myoglobin(p.132),whichthesefishneedfor
theirnonstop,high-velocitylife(p.201).Fish
myoglobin is especially prone to being
oxidized to brownish metmyoglobin,
especially at freezer temperatures down to –
22ºF/–30ºC; tuna must be frozen well below
this to keep its color. During cooking, fish
myoglobins denature and turn gray-brown at
around the same temperature as beef
myoglobin, between 140 and 160ºF/60 and
70ºC.Becausetheyareoftenpresentinsmall
quantities, their color change can be masked
by the general milkiness caused when all the