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chimneyofcoalsunderonesideofthegrillgrateandcook
the steaks full blast from start to finish, flipping
occasionally. On the stovetop, use a pan cast-iron pan and
goforsmoking-hothighheat.Hangersteaksworkwellwith
marinades.
Finally, hanger steaks are good candidates for sous-vide
cooking(seehere),asitguaranteesthattheycookevenlyall
thewaythrough.Cookthemina125°to130°Fwaterbath,
thenfinishthemoffwiththehighest-possibleheatonagrill
orthestovetop.
Slicingandserving:Likeanymeat,hangersteaksshouldbe
allowed to rest for a few minutes after cooking. Let it rest,
then slice against the grain and serve. When properly
cookedandsliced,ahangersteakiseverybitastenderasa
rib-eye.
SkirtSteak
Ofalltheinexpensivecutsonthecow,skirtisprobablythe
greatest dollar-to-flavor value there is. Riddled with plenty
of buttery, beefy fat with a deep, rich flavor and a tender,
juicytexture,it’satoughcutnottolike.Indeed,I’dsaythat
itsflavorisevenbetterthantherib-eyeandfarsuperiortoa
relativelyblandtenderloinorNewYorkstrip.
Thatis,it’satoughcutnottolikeifyou’vehaditcooked
andslicedproperly.Alltoooften,youheadouttoamidrate
taqueria where the skirt steak (known asasfajitas—“little
belts”—in Mexico) sits around in piles on the edges of the
griddle,slowlyovercookingandturningfromtender,juicy,
steak-fit-for-a-kingintoyourtypicaltough,leathery,liverytastingtacostuffing.
Equally bad is the uncle who throws it onto a too-cool