The food lab better home cooking through science ( PDFDrive ) 205
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Packagedgelatin(thesamestuffthatmakesJell-Ojiggly)
iscommerciallyavailableinpowderedorsheetform.Soall
I had to do was take my 45-minute-simmered choppedcarcassbrothandaddcommercialgelatintoittoproducea
stock that was not only flavorful as one that had been
simmeredforhours,butjustasrich!
Sothat’sit,right?Stockin45minutes?Well,wait—what
if we could make our stock taste even better than a
traditionally made French-style stock? Not possible, you
say?I’llproveit.
In a traditional French stock, clarity is valued above all
else—it’s fat and dissolved minerals and proteins (which
we’ll collectively call by their scientific name, “gunk”) that
make broth cloudy. If you keep a stock at a bare simmer,
the fat rises to the surface in distinct bubbles that can be
carefully skimmed off as it cooks, and the proteins
coagulate into relatively large agglomerations that can be
strainedout.
But let your broth simmer vigorously, or—mon dieu,
non!–actually come to a boil, and that gunk gets dispersed
intomillionsoftinydropletsthatsimplycan’tbecompletely
removed from the broth. It can spell disaster in a fancy
restaurant,wheresaucesandsoupsmustbeperfectlyglossy
andcrystalclear,butdowereallycareaboutthatathome?
I, for one, will take flavor over appearance any day of the
week,andfatisflavor.
A bonus to grinding up the chicken bones and scraps
beforemakingstockisthatalltheground-upbitsformasort
offloatingraftthatwillcollectstrayproteins,minerals,and
