On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 574
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butthisresultsinadifferentkindof
fermentation.Nutrientsforthemicrobesin
thebrinediffuseveryslowlyfromtheflesh
throughthewaxycuticle,andtheintact
phenolicmaterialsinhibitmicrobialgrowth.
Sothetemperatureiskeptlow(5564F/13
18C),andyeastsratherthanlacticacid
bacteriadominateinaslowalcoholic
fermentationthattakesaslongasayear.This
methodisusuallyappliedtoblackripeolives
(Greek,ItalianGaeta,FrenchNiỗoise).They
turnoutmorebitterandlesstartthanthe
pretreatedkinds(anacidityof0.30.5%
ratherthan1%),andhaveadistinctively
winey,fruityaroma.
Unfermentedripeblackolivesarean
inventionoftheCaliforniacanningindustry.
Theyremadefromunripegreenolives,which
mayundergoanincidentalandpartial
fermentationwhilebeingstoredinbrine
beforeprocessing.Buttheiruniquecharacter
isdeterminedbyrepeatedbrieflyetreatments
toleachoutandbreakdownoleuropein,and
theadditionofanironsolutionanddissolved
oxygentoreactwithphenoliccompoundsand
turntheskinblack.Olivessotreatedarethen
packedinalight3%brine,canned,and
sterilized.Theyhaveabland,cookedflavor
andoftensomeresidualalkalinity,which
givesthemaslipperyquality.
Unusual Fermentations: Poi, Citron,
Preserved Lemons Poi is a Hawaiian
preparation of taro root (p. 306). The starchy
taro is cooked, mashed, thinned with water,
and then allowed to stand for one to three
days.Lacticacidbacteriasourit,andproduce
some volatile acids as well (vinegary acetic,
cheesy propionic). In longer fermentations,
yeasts andGeotrichum molds also grow and
contributefruityandmushroomynotes.
Citronpeel,candiedfromarelativeofthe
lemon,owesitstraditionallycomplexflavor
tofermentation.Originallythecitronfruits
