On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 1271
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monthsbetweenharvestandprocessing,
duringwhichtimeitcanbetaintedbysoil
bacteriaandmoldsthatremainonitssurface.
Inaddition,beetsugarsometimescarries
tracesofdefensivechemicalscalledsaponins,
whichresemblesoaps.Theseareknownto
causethedevelopmentofascuminsyrups,
andmayalsoberesponsibleforthepoor
bakingperformancesometimesattributedto
beetsugar.(Thisreputationmaybean
undeservedlegacyoftheearly20thcentury,
whenrefiningtechniquesweren’taseffective
andthequalityofbeetsugaroftendidn’t
measureuptothatofcanesugar.)
KindsofWhiteSugarWhitesugarcomesin
a number of different forms, which differ
mainlyinthesizeofthecrystals.Theygoby
many different names. Ordinary table sugar,
used for general cooking and dissolving in
drinks, is midsized. Coarser crystals are
mainly used for decorating baked goods and
confections, and for that reason are specially
treated to produce a sparkling, crystal-clear
appearance. They are made from
exceptionally pure batches of sucrose, with
the least possible residue of the impurities
thatgiveordinarysugarsolutionsayellowish
look. They’re even washed with alcohol to
removesucrosedustontheirsurfaces.Whena
cook wants to make the whitest possible
fondant, or the clearest possible syrup, it’s
besttousethesecoarseor“sanding”sugars.
Atthefinerendofthescale,therearea
numberofsugarswithsmallerparticlesthan
tablesugar.Extra-fine,baker’sspecial,and
Englishcastersugarsalloffermore
crystallinesurfacesthatcanintroduceairinto
fatduringthecreamingstageofmakingcakes
(p.556).“Powdered”sugarshavebeenground
intoevensmallerparticles,somesmall
enoughthattheyoffernoroughnesstothe
tongue,andcanbemadedirectlyintovery
smoothicings,frostings,andfillings.
