On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 573
Bạn đang xem bản rút gọn của tài liệu. Xem và tải ngay bản đầy đủ của tài liệu tại đây (168.76 KB, 2 trang )
Qualities
Tart,
Strongflavor,crunchy,
aromatic
tingly
Common problems in home-pickled
cucumbers include cheesy and rancid offflavors, which come from the growth of
undesirable bacteria when there’s not enough
salt or acidity to inhibit them, and hollow
“bloaters,” which are pickles swollen with
carbon dioxide produced by yeasts (or
sometimes
byLactobacillus brevis or
mesentericus)whenthesaltlevelistoohigh.
Olives Fresh olives are practically inedible
thanks to their ample endowment of a bitter
phenolic
substance,oleuropein, and its
relatives.Theolivetreewasfirstcultivatedin
theeasternMediterraneanaround5,000years
ago, probably as a source of oil. Olive
fermentationmayhavebeendiscoveredwhen
earlypeopleslearnedtoremovethebitterness
by soaking the fruit in changes of water. By
Roman times, the soaking water was often
supplemented with alkaline wood ashes,
which cut the debittering period from weeks
to hours. (The modern industrial treatment is
a1–3%solutionofsodiumhydroxide,orlye.)
Alkaline conditions actually break bitter
oleuropein down, and also breach the waxy
outercuticleanddissolvecell-wallmaterials.
Theseeffectsmakethefruitasawholemore
permeabletothesaltbrinethatfollows(after
a wash and acid treatment to neutralize the
alkalinity),andhelpthefermentationproceed
faster. Lactic acid bacteria are the main
fermenters,thoughsomeyeastsalsogrowand
contribute to the aroma. Olives may be
debittered and fermented while still green
(“Spanish”style,themajorcommercialtype)
or once their skin has turned dark with
purplish anthocyanins, when they are less
bitter.
Olivesarealsofermentedwithoutany
preliminaryleachingoralkalinetreatment,
