Tải bản đầy đủ (.pdf) (2 trang)

On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 174

Bạn đang xem bản rút gọn của tài liệu. Xem và tải ngay bản đầy đủ của tài liệu tại đây (168.54 KB, 2 trang )

in17thcenturyFrance,andmayhavebeenthe
ancestorsoflemoncurd.
EarlyAcid-TenderizedEggs
MarmeladesorScrambledEggsand
Verjus,WithoutButter
Breakfoureggs,beatthem,adjustwithsalt
andfourspoonsfulofverjus[sourgrape
juice],putthemixonthefire,andstir
gentlywithasilverspoonjustuntilthe
eggsthickenenough,andthentakethem
offthefireandstirthemabitmoreasthey
thicken.Onecanmakescrambledeggsin
thesamewaywithlemonororangejuice
LePatissierfranỗois,ca.1690
TheChemistryofEggFlavor

Fresheggshaveamildflavorthathasproven
difficulttoanalyze.Thewhitecontributesthe
mainsulfurynote,theyolkasweet,buttery
quality.Thearomaproducedbyagiveneggis


slightestimmediatelyafterlaying,andgets
strongerthelongerit’sstoredbeforecooking.
Ingeneral,eggageandstorageconditions
haveagreaterinfluenceonflavorthanthe
hen’sdietandfreedomtorange.However,
bothdietandpedigreecanhavenoticeable
effects.Brown-eggbreedsareunableto
metabolizeanodorlesscomponentof
rapeseedandsoymeals(choline),andtheir


intestinalmicrobesthentransformitintoa
fishy-tastingmolecule(triethylamine)that
endsupintheeggs.Fish-mealfeedsand
certainfeedpesticidescauseoff-flavors.The
unpredictabledietoftrulyfree-rangehens
willproduceunpredictableeggs.
Somethingbetween100and200
compoundshavebeenidentifiedinthearoma
ofcookedeggs.Themostcharacteristicis
hydrogensulfide,H2S.Inlargedoses—ina
spoiledeggorindustrialpollution—H2Sis
veryunpleasant.Inacookedeggitcontributes
thedistinctivelyeggynote.It’sformed



×