On food and cooking the science and lore of the kitchen ( PDFDrive ) 377
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arethinanddelicate.
SoftnessCertainconditionscanleadtofish
fleshbecomingunpleasantlysoft.Whenfish
fleshisdepletedbymigrationorbyspawning,
theirsparsemuscleproteinsbondtoeach
otheronlyveryloosely,andtheoverall
textureissoftandflabby.Inextremecases,
suchas“sloppy”codor“jellied”sole,the
muscleproteinsaresotenuouslybondedthat
themuscleseemsalmostliquefied.Somefish
comeoutmushywhenthawedafterfrozen
storage,becausefreezingdisruptsthecells’
compartmentsandliberatesenzymesthatthen
attackthemusclefibers.Andenzymeactivity
duringcookingcanturnfirmfishmushyin
thepan;seep.211.
FishFlavor
Theflavoroffishmaywellbethemost
variableandchangeableamongourbasic
foods.Itdependsonthekindoffish,the
salinityofitshomewaters,thefooditeats,
andthewayitisharvestedandhandled.
Fish Taste In general, seafood is more fulltastingthanmeatsorfreshwaterfish,because
ocean creatures accumulate amino acids to
counterbalance the salinity of seawater (p.
188). The flesh of ocean fish generally
contains about the same amount of salty
sodiumasbeefortrout,butthreetotentimes
morefreeaminoacids,notablysweetglycine
and savory glutamate. Shellfish, sharks and
rays, and members of the herring and
mackerel family are especially rich in these
amino acids. Because the salt content of
seawater varies substantially — it’s high in
the open ocean, lower near river mouths —
the amino-acid content and therefore taste
intensityoffishvariesaccordingtothewaters
they’recaughtin.
Anadditionalelementoffishtasteis
contributedindirectlybytheenergy-carrying
